IN CUENCA, ALWAYS EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED

Today's blog post started out as a personal email, but as I kept writing, I decided it would be my latest blog post:


Hi Lois,

Yes Chris and Bettye Petersen are great neighbors here at the Palermo.  We've been having a good time and always seem to have something to talk about, and I have introduced them to several of my friends over various lunches and dinners.  

Yesterday, started out very warm and extraordinarily sunny. The clouds over the eastern mountain range were so white and fluffy.  There wasn't a dark spot to be found anywhere in the sky enveloping Cuenca.  Of course, Lois, when you live here for a while you will learn quickly that such mornings are illusionary, and if the weather change is not what you wanted, you may even feel disillusioned.  When the three of us left for our adventure of the day at 1:00 p.m., the sky almost on cue had changed to an overcast. It happened so rapidly, that there truly is much truth to the statement, "That if you don't like the weather in Cuenca, don't worry it will change in ten minutes."  I rationalized to Chris and Bettye that the overcast would be advantageous to us, rather than spending an afternoon of walking under the hot sun, but we all knew what was most likely to be the outcome of this overcast. 

Yesterday, was a true test of a budding friendship.  I walked their and my behinds all over Cuenca, in search of the art fair.  We would have had an easier time trying to find Carmen Sandiego. There are two major art fairs annually in Cuenca. We found the first part, which is mainly crafts that quite frankly you can find anywhere in Cuenca, and it was located where it normally is on both sides of the river near Cuenca University.  By the time we arrived to this part of the fair, of course it was raining and drizzling, which would continue for about an hour.

Also in that location is Esquina Arts a complex of about twenty art shops, and which as I later would learn, turned out to be the sponsor and heart of the festival.  I then took Chris and Bettye down to Parque Madre, which, is totally boarded up, will be demolished, and replaced with a 350 underground auto garage, with a new park over the garage, and high quality running lanes for joggers and runners as well.

So all the past painting exhibitions that were along the sidewalks of the park were not on exhibit. What new location did they move the exhibits to, I wondered?  One young lady I asked said San Blas Square, and a middle-age lady said Parque Calderon.  We walked into El Centro from the river to an area between the two squares.  From what we could see, there appeared to be booths down by San Blas Square so we walked down there, and it was more of the handicraft stuff we saw earlier. Chris and Bettye did get to see the interior of San Blas Church, and a wedding ceremony was taking place at the time. They also saw the location for one of the vegetarian restaurants, which are of interest to them in Cuenca.  I also showed them the Canadian family-owned ice cream parlor on the square.  Many believe its ice cream is better than Tutto Freddo's.  I also noticed that Tutto Freddo's moved from a larger location on the square to a smaller location even closer to its rival ice cream shop.  Either way, both offer great ice cream.  A large stage was also setup on the square with all the sound equipment, which indicated some loud rock, South American style music was going to be the evening entertainment.  I also heard that Parque Paraiso would be featuring band concerts that evening as well.

We didn't have ice cream.  We just used the ice cream shop's banos, and walked back down Simon Bolivar toward Parque Calderon.  As we walked, we were accompanied by a band playing from an open van as it made its way down the street. It is always interesting, when these traditional type of bands play in the city, all the men wear suits while performing.

The band was accompanied by vintage autos from the 30's through the 70's, and there were even more vintage autos on display on Benigo Malo along Parke Calderon.  It was 4:00 in the afternoon.  I talked to the always friendly owner in the Ramipampa Restaurant, and he showed me the Art Festival ad in the newspaper. It was then that I came to the realization that possibly because of all the construction work along Parque Madre; and along the street on the opposite side of the river where major road construction is also taking place, and which had also been used in past painting exhibitions that can run for blocks; the whole fair was just scaled back this spring.  

Bettye wanted to eat at a nice restaurant, so I suggested Mangiare Bene, a fusion Italian-Ecuadorian restaurant, which in my opinion, is one of the very best eateries in the city, and it would be in the direction of our walking back to the Palermo.  As we arrived, the restaurant was closed, which I feared, since Ecuadorians usually don't eat supper until 7:00 p.m. or later, and the restaurant would not open until 6:00 p.m. for those early gringo diners.

Ultimately, it was decided by the three of us to make our way over to the Mediterraneo Restaurant, a very fine traditional Italian restaurant. The owner who is also the chef is from Milan, Italy, but the restaurant was almost one mile from our current location.   No one voted to take a taxi, so we walked.  I also figured that if the Mediterraneo was closed, there was about a half dozen other fine restaurants in the area.  As we approached the general area I couldn't find the Mediterraneo.  I left all my address books at home, because I didn't think I would need them and I wanted to lighten my bag load.  Chris was beginning to look irritated with me, not that I couldn't blame him.  We had easily walked six miles. We walked over to Zoe's, but they were closed.  We went across the street to the Indigo restaurant which is inexpensive and serves reasonably good food and sandwiches. Bettye came up with a great suggestion that we have a cocktail at Indigo's, and by six we could walk over to Las Monjas when it opened for dinner. Well, we had two cocktails a piece, and we all agreed they were quite good and very reasonably priced at Indigo's.  

By 6:20 p.m., we made our way down to Las Monjas, another one of the finest cuisine restaurants in the city.  The atmosphere, service, and food are all first class.  We started our dinner off with chocolate martinis, which were superb to say the least. They would also become Bettye and my dessert as well.  It was early by Ecuadorian standards for dining, and only one other family was in the restaurant during our time there.


This was my second visit to Las Monjas, I had visited there over a month ago when my brother and sister-in-law where visiting from the states, we all loved the restaurant then, but there were few patrons.  I would think such an outstanding dining experience would find this restaurant over-flowing with customers.  All three of us had seafood dinners, and the chef did an excellent job of preparation and presentation.  After dinner as we departed the restaurant, the better part of discretion required that we take a taxi home and not try to hoof it.  

Chris and Bettye received a better feel for the overall layout of the city, and where various places were located in relationship to others, whether they wanted the lesson or not.  I learned not to trust that the way things were done in previous events would necessarily be done the same way again.  We never found the art fair we sought out, and we never found Carmen Sadiego either.  In the end, the drinks and dinner made the day, and were the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow of all that walking, searching, and experiencing the unexpected.  

So Lois, we look forward to the time you come to join us on another visit to Cuenca, and when you come to permanently settle here.  Thanks for your friendship, and for introducing me to Chris and Bettye.

HOSTERIA DOS CHORRERAS REVISITED

While my brother, Leo and his wife, Carla were visiting in Cuenca, they especially requested to visit the Hosteria Dos Chorreras Restaurant and Inn not far from the entrance to the Cajas National Park.  Their request had been based on an earlier post I had written of this spectacular restaurant of exceptional architectural achievement and landscaping.  If you would like to see the original post and  photos of Dos Chorreras just click on the link below, click on slideshow, and click on the forward arrow, so you can control the speed of viewing each slide:

https://picasaweb.google.com/111741036841400152108/HOSTERIADOSCHORRERAS     


On this trip our friend and driver had one of his friends, Manuel, take us to the restaurant.  On the way, however, Manuel took us on a side trip as we neared the restaurant area to show us the church grounds and church where he, his wife, and two daughters attend Saturday evening mass.  The grounds were attractive, and are known by the name, Capilla y Jardin (Chapel and Garden).  There were various religious icons on display.  Manuel was very proud of his church.  As we walked about the grounds, we viewed some outside wall displays that included plaques and letters of thanks and appreciation to God for those in the parish who had successfully made it to the United States to live and work.  I thought these prayers of appreciation may be unique to this particular church, but I  since have spoken to another friend who was aware of the same custom practiced at another church in Cuenca, so it may be a more common practice than we thought.  You may view the church grounds on the link below, and follow the same modus operendi as in the previous link.


https://plus.google.com/photos/111741036841400152108/albums/5726638190189543297



My purpose for posting again about the beautiful architectural gem, Hosteria Dos Chorrereas was the fact that I thought I had seen all of the rooms in the building from my trip there in November.  However, it didn't take long to discover not only some additional dining rooms, but a bar as well on a lower level.  Last time I also was able to get shots of the interior of some of the cabin rooms, which are housed separately from the main restaurant.  I hoped to show them to my brother and sister-in-law, but the draperies were closed to all of the cabin rooms.  This time, however, I was able to view some of the hotel rooms in the restaurant-inn complex, and those pictures are included.

When Jose Cortez and I visited in November we practically had the entire restaurant to ourselves.  This time, a seminar was being held in one of the upper dining areas, and a bus-load of tourists were on hand as well.  The beautiful gift shop was doing a humming business.  My sister-in-law has some sensational photos of the gift shop.  However, since my brother is as brain-dead as me when it comes to electronics, they haven't figured out how to transfer their photos to me so I can use some of them in these posts.  Nonetheless, there were some photos of the gift shop in the original post above.

What I am especially pleased to report to you is that when Jose and I had dinner in November at Chorrereas, we were not very happy with the meal other than our main entrees.  We shared are disappointment with the manager.  I don't know if other concerns about the meals were expressed as well by other patrons.  I do know that it really felt good to find that management acted on our suggestions.  The manager was sincere when he said they welcomed our comments, and appreciated feedback from their patrons.  He wasn't handing us some public relations b.s. of what he thought we wanted to hear.  The management actually acted on our suggestions!

We had a very good meal.  Not only the entree of trout, which was fine before, but also the sopa de papas was immensely improved.  The broth was now thick and not insipid, and it now included alvocado and a slice of hard boiled egg.  The side dishes were quite good, and the dessert was not only delicious, but came in a larger portion.  The menu is great, because it provides the diner with all the food items in Spanish and their English translation.

So not only do you have a place to visit or spend a night or two of relaxation in natural and architectural splendor, but you also can enjoy a high quality and filling seafood dinner at a reasonable price.  You're welcome to enjoy the additions to the Chorrereas' slide album below, and I consider ourselves extremely fortunate that such a jewel of a place is right in our own backyard of Cuenca.  (Click on the first larger photo and that will allow you to go into slide show mode, and you will find the forward arrow way over to the right:

https://plus.google.com/photos/111741036841400152108/albums/5720318273473267777?authkey=CK67g7Ho-_WiswE

VISITING GUAYAQUIL--CITY STREETS

While my brother, Leo, his wife, Carla, and I were visiting in Guayaquil we walked along two or three streets that paralleled the Malecon Drive.  Primarily, we were seeking a place for lunch.  Restaurants seemed far and in-between.  Restaurant scarcity seemed odd in an area dense with financial institutions and government office buildings.  We did find a crowded corner restaurant, which offered a buffet amuerzo.  It was heart-warming to see how quickly the young wait-staff went to work to find us a table and help Carla get herself situated as we made our way down the tight aisles on one of the few days we used a wheel chair.  I don't recall if we were the only gringos in the place, but the staff having to deal with a crush of customers, went out of their way to get us situated and explain the procedure for using the buffet and the various dishes available on the buffet.  I don't how my brother pulled it off. I wasn't standing next to him when he went through the buffet line, but while I had to make choices among the food items offered, Leo just told the server that he wanted one of everything, and that's what they gave him for the same price.

After lunch we walked along the city streets and snapped photos of the beautiful architecture in that part of town near the Malecon.  I didn't take notes on the buildings we saw, so all I have to share with you are the unidentified architectural facade photos.  In the opening slides along the sides of some tall buildings, if I understood correctly, were actual paintings done by well known Ecuadorian artists. It would be great to see a project like that completed in Cuenca.  If not with well-known Ecuadorian artists, then certainly with established and up-and-coming Cuencano artists, who can be free to express their own thing.

We also visited the the Museo Nahim Isaiah, which has a collection of over 2,000 art works.  The exhibits are particularly focused on colonial art and religious art.  Many videos are scattered throughout the exhibits with what I assume were explanations of the history of much of what was being presented on exhibit, since the videos were presented in Spanish.  Those of you from Chicago, who have seen the European religious art on display in the Art Institute would be underwhelmed by most of the paintings on display here.  However, it was interesting to see the contrast in South American artistic take on how the religious art was presented in the various statues and paintings. What I enjoyed the most was the museum structure itself.  It is a beautiful modern building inaugurated in 1989, architecturally designed as truly an art work unto itself, and I did enjoy the way in which many of the works of art were presented without just simply flat-wall lining.


I don't know what many parts of Guayaquil look like  However, near the Malecon, and the plaza walkway a couple of blocks in from the Malecon Drive, one couldn't visit a more nicely maintained area.   The area reminded me of the improvements being made in Cuenca, as well as the improvements that need to be made.  As I said in the previous post, we abruptly made this trip without any research, other than Ecuadorian friends who had told me that the Malecon was one area worth a visit in Guayaquil, and that as we found, was very safe.


A number of major projects are currently underway, or will soon be undertaken in Cuenca.  Such projects include the construction of the underpass on Avenidas de las Americas and Gran Columbia; the excavation along part of the Third of Noviembre, where as I understand it, many cables are being placed underground; construction of many new walkways and observation points have been built along the Rio Tomebama in the past year;  major renovations and rejuvenations of the open air San Francisco Market are to begin soon; the first leg of the electric bus line along Gran Columbia is to begin this year in El Centro, and eventually extend to other streets in El Centro to discourage auto traffic as well as replace the polluting combustible engine gas buses;  twelve miles of new sidewalk construction in El Centro is also scheduled for this year, and is sorely needed; and  Parke Madre will soon be excavated to make room for a 350 car underground garage, and an entirely new park with high quality grade running lanes for joggers will be constructed.  The destruction of this park will be sad to see, along with the loss of so many mature trees.  It will take fifteen to twenty years before the new park will have the beautiful shade trees that form a canopy over many sections of the current park, but in the long-run the park will give greater benefit to the people, and no doubt more parking spaces are needed.

All the delineated above projects cost money and as far as I know are fully funded.  Ironically, two things can be done to spruce up El Centro that would be very inexpensive compared to the above costly projects, and go a long way in improving the beauty of the historic district.  Many commercial buildings in El Centro, no matter what renovations may or may not be needed to their interiors, are sorely in need of fresh paint jobs and in some places fresh plaster to the exterior of the buildings as well.  One example of facades in need of fresh paint jobs, are the buildings that house the Ramipampa Restaurant and Tutu Freddos on Benigno Malo. Especially considering that these buildings are next to the New Cathedral, and within eye view of anyone walking or sitting in Parke Calderon.  One would think coordinated steps between property owners and city officials would work out a plan to spruce up the facades of many of these buildings.  Some buildings only need a fresh paint job at street level, and look fine further up.  While many structures have undergone extensive renovation and restored to their Spanish Renaissance magnificence,  Simple paint jobs to many other facades would certainly contribute to the beauty and freshness of El Centro.

The other problem continues to morph into monstrous proportions since last summer and that is the egregious tagging that has become pervasive like a lethal virus throughout the city.  I have had a number of tourists in recent weeks wonder how a city can be rated the number one city for retirement, or has been designated by UNESCO as an International Preservation Historical Site, and so little respect seems to be shown by the residents of a city with acts of cultural indifference to their heritage by all this pervasive tagging.  Fresh paint and curbing of the tagging problem are two simple things that can be addressed. Neither are cost exorbitant, and yet would go far to enhance the beauty and magnificence of the historic district.

Here's the link to Guayaquil:  Click on the slideshow link in the upper left-hand corner, and best to just quickly click on the forward arrow, so you can control the speed at which you wish to observe each slide.

https://picasaweb.google.com/111741036841400152108/PublicBuildingsGuayaquil?authkey=Gv1sRgCISemIWN9empkQE

Visiting Guayaquil--PART I-- THE MALECON

When I first arrived in Ecuador in July of 2010 for my one month visit to Cuenca, I stayed overnight in Guayaquil.  The passage through customs was long and grueling.  It was well past midnight, and getting settled into a comfortable hotel, and sleeping for a few hours before preparation for my flight to Cuenca did not give me the opportunity to experience Guayaquil in any meaningful way.  I just remembered the great hotel I slept in that night, the wonderful bell-hop who assisted me, the humidity, and the warning not to venture far from the hotel because of crime.

If you wish to read about that first day of arrival in Guayaquil, Ecuador; you may do so at the following link:

http://cuencaperspectivesbyjim.blogspot.com/2010/07/from-chicago-to-cuenca.html

Since I have lived in Cuenca, I have heard universal stories about the corruption and crime levels in Guayaquil, how it is Ecuador's industrial city, not very attractive as industrial cities go,  with not much to do, and with little in the way of cultural activities.  A few months ago I briefly made a transportation transfer from Playas on the coast, to Guayaquil, and back to Cuenca.  The humidity in the city was stifling, and I did not care if I never set foot in Guayaquil again.

When my brother, Leo, and his wife, Carla, took me for a loop, and suddenly announced they wanted to spend a few days of their two weeks in Cuenca to visit Guayaquil and experience another part of Ecuador as well; I was abruptly caught off guard.  I decided the one positive place I had heard about in the city to visit was the Malecon.  The Malecon 2000, as it had been aptly named,  had been developed in recent years, and runs for about three miles along the Guayas River in Guayaquil, which leads to the Pacific Ocean.

I was really happy we made the trip.  The weather was humid, but tolerable during the two nights and three days that we visited.  Both days it rained during the morning, and it was all cleared up by late morning, and remained that way the rest of the day.  We stayed at the Ramada Inn which is across the street from the Malecon.  It was very clean, with spacious rooms, reasonably priced, and had an excellent handicap room and shower to accommodate my sister-in-law.

For those of you from the Chicago area, I can best describe the Malecon as being somewhat comparable to Navy Pier, only instead of protruding into the lake like Navy Pier, the Malecon parallels the Guayas River for approximately three miles.  A very beautiful job was done with the layout of the Malecon and the endless attractions it has to offer.  However, the Malecon does lack the dramatic effect provided to Navy Pier and the coastline by Lake Michigan, whose expanse on the horizon is far beyond what the eye can see.  Nor does the river, like Lake Michigan, provide the rolling waves that continuously wash up and break along the shoreline of the Great Lake.  The Guayas River is wide, and like any river one can see its bank on its opposite side, but it probably is wider than all four rivers together that meander through Cuenca.  However, the water basically just lies there.  This is quite a contrast from the very narrow four rivers which run through Cuenca. These river waters follow the gravitational force downward from the Cajas, and the large amount of rocks found in these unnavigable rivers, only adds to the excitement of the rapids as they pulsate through Cuenca.  I would describe the movement of the river in Guayaquil  at best as serene, and at worse as lifeless.

Nevertheless, the Malecon itself was well worth our time, and a creation that the people of Guyaquil can be very proud.  It offers casual relaxation not only to the tourists, but to those people of Guayaquil who are fortunate enough to take advantage of its amenities.  We spent from Monday until Wednesday in Guayaquil, and I just can imagine the crowds present on the weekends.  Late afternoon and early evening was a nice time for us, with less humidity and some breezes off the river.

Besides being an exceptionally  beautifully designed, expansive walkway, the Malecon offers something for everybody:  museums; botanical gardens with fountains, lagoons, islands, bridges, and ramps; playground areas for the kids; boat rides up and down he river; historical statues and monuments; a Moorish Clock Tower; restaurants, bars, and endless eateries; shopping malls that are ensconced at a lower level stretching along the esplanade with the multiple cellular structures of the overall mall prevented from dominating the space around it.  The mall complex is fully air-conditioned, and separated into sections as one walks from one section of the mall to another as it snakes its way along the esplanade.  There are also attractive and fun playgrounds for the children.  The Malecon is also home to the Guayaquil Yacht Club, and the Naval Yacht Club.

We were not interested in taking a boat ride, and my brother and his wife tired the first evening.  They returned back to the hotel, while I continued my walk along the river.  The next latter afternoon and early evening we walked the same length, because Leo and Carla had missed so much from the day before.  By the time we arrived back to the entrance area of the Malecon near our hotel, we did not continue down to the other end.  I assumed it could not be but a half a mile to a mile, because the stretch we had already walked in just one direction seemed like at least two miles.  The following day as we made our way in the taxi from the hotel to catch our van ride back to Cuenca, we drove past the part of the Malecon that we never did get a chance to walk.  Much to our surprise we saw as we rode by:  the Planetarium; the Museum of Anthropology, which also features local and international artists, with frequent changes in exhibitions; and of course, that was also the area where the IMAX Theatre, the first built in South America, was located.  Oh well, something for me to look forward to the next time I am in Guayaquil, and I will be looking forward to telling Leo and Carla all about what they missed.

I hope you enjoy the slides.  I do not have any slides of the mall.  I just didn't think to take any while we walked through
the mall, and of course, there are no slides of the museums and IMAX that we missed at the other end of the Malecon.  Nonetheless, this is truly a trip worth taking.  If you don't know the routine yet.  Click below.  Click on the "slideshow" label in the upper left-hand corner of the page.  Either set the timer for seven seconds, or as I would recommend just continue to manually click on the forward arrow, and then you can view each slide at your pace:

https://picasaweb.google.com/111741036841400152108/MalacanGuayaquilEcuador?authkey=Gv1sRgCNCk4cL84KuMag

VISITING CUENCA--Part II--Mall Del Rio Dance Program

Last Saturday, March 10th, Martha Abril and I took my brother, Leo and my sister-in-law, Carla to the Food Court of Mall Del Rio, for a dance program.  Martha's son Joshua who is fourteen years old, and her daughter, Amy, who just celebrated her ninth birthday were both performing during the program.  Amy recently took a silver in a country-wide dance competition in Quito, which was especially amazing since at the time she had only been dancing six months.

The dance was sponsored by the Fama School of Dance.  The information below is taken from a post by Larry Marler and his wife, Linda, who are expats who stay young and healthy as dance students of the school:

FAMA School of Dance and Bailoterapia

David Ortega - Dance Choreographer 

Location:  Av. del Estadio y Roberto Crespo (Edificio El Estadio next to Pronto Pizza), Cuenca

David also has a group of dancers that performs shows around Cuenca.  His dance troupe has put on shows at California Kitchen and the Eucalyptus Cafe, plus many others.

You can also get dance lessons for:  Salsa, Bachata, Meringue, Hip-Hop, Reggaeton, Cha-Cha-Cha, and Tango.

Bailoterapia:  0700 - 0900  ($1.00 per hour) + $5,00 inscription for the year and 2000 - 2100

Phones:  07 286 6228; Cellphones 08 795 4749, 08 582 0762.

My disappointment with the program was that with my relatives in town, I had hoped for them to experience some of the dance programs that would give them a real experience of traditional as well as contemporary dance.  Some of the programs I have attended during my year here in Cuenca featured a variety of dances, with some young performers in their traditional, amazingly colorful costumes and greatly talented in their presentations.  These presentations would have been something  Leo and Carla very much would have enjoyed.  Some programs I've seen have also featured some of Cuenca's finest Salsa as well as Tango dancers.  


This program was strictly contemporary dancing which can be seen among young people almost anywhere in the world, although no doubt the performers were talented and performed well.  The large audience certainly had a good time, and so did we. The program included  aerobic dancing by folks in the packed food court who chose to participate, while members of FAMA SCHOOL of DANCE led the aerobic dancing. There was also a belly dancing performance by a young man and two attractive young ladies.  I had seen them perform before some months ago, and they have definitely gone from performing well to performing to a very good status.  Unfortunately, for whatever reason, I don't have any pictures of their performance.

As the program approached its close, the audience by their applause and cheers judged who among the voluntary aerobic dancers was the best.  A young man who you will see in a black tee shirt after multiple reactions by the audience emerged the winner over a young woman who was also very good.  The young man won a two day stay at a hotel, while the young woman won a month of free lessons at FAMA SCHOOL.  Getting carried away in my enthusiastic exuberance, I promised that I would begin to take Salsa lessons in June when I return from my trip home to the states.  It is amazing the things with which I continuously preoccupy my time to keep from seriously studying mi Espanol.  I use to know the basic steps to the Tango, and I loved to Cha Cha.  Maybe, I'll take up Hip Hop as well, and if my heart holds out, give Joshua Abril a run for his money.

Here is the link below.  You click on the slide show in the upper left hand corner and set the timer for two seconds, or you can just continue to click on the forward arrow of the slide presentation at your own pace of preference..  

https://picasaweb.google.com/111741036841400152108/DancingAtMallDelRio31012?authkey=Gv1sRgCPvkzdXp-OHBag

VISITING CUENCA --Feria Libre

The past four weeks have presented me with an extraordinarily busy social life, and peaked with my brother, Leo, and his wife Carla, spending two weeks with me in Cuenca that flashed by quickly.  While we saw all the usual sites in Cuenca, and it gave Leo and Carla the opportunity to get a feel for the city, I sometimes think we did way too much which gave us little time to relax and get a leisurely feel for the city.  At least from my perspective, I felt more like we were tourists that had to get as much as we could squeeze into two weeks, but Carla and Leo seem to have an enjoyable time.  In fact, enjoyable enough that my brother already wants to visit more of South America with a visit to Santiago, Chili next year.  Our two weeks together also included three days in Guayaquil, which I will have more to share in later posts.

The next few posts will provide coverage of our two week marathon.  Today's post sports photos of our day at Feria Libre the largest outdoor market in Cuenca.  I chose Wednesday to visit the market, because Wednesday along with Saturday are the two busiest days at the market, when the vendors are endless.  My sister-in-law began with her wifely duty of shopping, while my brother did his husbandly duty of pulling out his wallet.  Carla bought a cape that goes well even with blue jeans, and it took her no time to find a hat she liked.  Leo just was not going to go for any Panama style hats, and stuck with his cap.  Except for our first evening at eating at Ramipampa Restuarant which is nestled to the right of the Immaculate Conception or what is better known as the New Cathedral, and to the left of Tutto Freddo's Ice Cream Parlor; lunch at Feria Libre was one of the few really everyday type of Ecuadorian amuerzos my brother and his wife would get to experience.

The people who sat around the table with us were helpful and friendly even though none of them spoke English and went out of their way to make room for us at the table.  Leo and Carla gave the meal two thumbs up.

Enclosed is a slide presentation of our time at Feria Libre:  (Just click on slideshow in the upper left hand corner, so you can see enlarged photos, then click the time from 3 to 7 seconds, so you have a chance to briefly savor the slide.)

https://picasaweb.google.com/111741036841400152108/FeriaLibre?authkey=Gv1sRgCLW2kPyrjrWxhwE

THE ABANDONED VILLAGE OF GRAVIDULA

When Jose Cortez and I visited in November of 2011the Hosteria Dos Chorreras just outside the Cajas National Park, nearby we were informed of Problado de Guavidula, an archeological site of an abandoned town belonging to the Canari and Inca. This place in its early days was a necessary way-station between the Sierra and the Coast.  The town also served as a place to hide liquor smugglers, and conducted a gold mining operation as well.

For the price of six dollars, Jose and I took a horse-back ride from Chorreras to  Problado de Guavidula, which normally take about thirty minutes one way, but our somewhat successful efforts to get the horses beyond a simple walk allowed us to reach the town in twenty minutes.

After traveling a stretch of this road there is much fauna along the way as well as in the town itself.  One plant In particular that stands out because of its brilliantly white leaves and the fact that it was ubiquitous appears frequently in the photos, but I no longer remember what the name of the plant is.

You will see photos of a typical Indian house, where the people of this region once lived in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. This house has two rooms: one room with all the clothing used at the time; and the kitchen where the stove, clay pots, the attic, the guinea pig (cuy) farm and the meat preparation took place.


Also on display in the various buildings are weaving looms, many types of horse saddles, laquered tree trunk tables, a lodge, and a pulperia (paper store).  Museum artifacts are also found in the various buildings of crockery, tools, and various types of labeled mineral deposits which I assume could be found in the cave.

There is also a General Store, which included the restaurant, hairdressing, and the store. 

The third cabin served as the inn, and was used as living quarters of the drivers and other visitors who sought asylum for one or more nights.  Low-lying tables were often put together and then covered to make beds for the evening.

It was also the restaurant of Mrs. Cassandra, name given in honor of the lady who was in charge of feeding the people of this area.

The saloons were plentiful.  While on the tour, Jose and I were given an alcoholic drink, which I assume was and may still be home-brew drank especially among the indigenous.  It truly tasted and pungently smelled like turpentine.  I guess it was all right to drink.  I’m still here to write about it.

The Encantada mine is fascinating as one makes one’s way through tunnels that are maze-like.  Included was a lab; a pit of death, where the miners created scary images to ward off evil spirits; colorful lighting effects which are obviously a contemporary touch found in the caves; the mill; the cave of the pan (bread) with its baking oven; and bats, a mainstay of any self-respectable cave; a place where the miner's bathed; and the delivery room where the miners  proceeded to the distribution of money obtained after the extraction of gold and held in the canteen, located in the same place.

This society was formed by a group of seven or eight people who worked the whole process of mining and washing gold, but generally found only pyrite, a material very similar to gold for its brilliance, but of little monetary value.

We could not miss a chapel for religious believers, which included religious images of the time.  The chapel was quite tiny compared to say the saloon.  I assume the smallness of the chapel in contrast to the largeness of the saloon reflected  the values of those making their way through the town.

To finish Guavidula, there is a walk along the river Quinuas, with places where they hid the bootleggers and spaces for the exchange, which was conducted with the products of the harvest area.

In the photos you will see our guide, who was a gracious hostess, but spoke no English.  If you want to really understand what you are seeing, it is best to have someone bi-lingual along.  Lucky for me, Jose could do the translating.  You will also see the young man, who served as our guide as we rode the horses to and from the Problado de Guavidula.


Both the Hosteria and the exploration of Problado de Guavidula made for a really great day.


When the photos come up.  Click on "slide show" in the upper left hand corner.  Set the timing for seven seconds, and enjoy the presentation.



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