My mission in publishing this blog is first to provide a living history of my settlement and life in Cuenca, and to provide myself and the reader with a journal account delineating my reasons for why I have chosen to settle in Cuenca. Second, the posts are my way of staying in contact with family and friends back in the states, and to provide them with an understanding of a country and culture that most North Americans have little knowledge and awareness. Third, the blog is open to one and all who wish to compare and contrast the experiences of expat bloggers living in Cuenca, so that you can determine whether or not from your perspective Cuenca is an appropriate move for you. Fourth, my blog provides another example of how expats view and interpret life in Cuenca. Ecuadorians and Cuencanos who may read this blog are especially invited to post comments that may enhance all expats understanding and appreciation of Cuneca and its people, or to correct any misinterpretations in my assumptions and perceptions of Cuencano culture. Finally, I hope I can convey the feeling of love and appreciation that grows within me each passing day for this heavenly city nestled in the Andes and its very special people.
A great many changes have taken place in El Centro in recent months. When the lockdowns turned Cuenca into a virtual ghost town, I thought much of the center would be filled with vacant buildings when the covid scare ended; just the opposite happened. The city is more vibrant than ever. Many owners of businesses in the city have lowered rents either to avoid losing commercial renters or to fill their vacant stores and offices. Much of South America and the United States are experiencing steep inflation spikes. At the moment, as reported by the government; Ecuador has been moving in the opposite direction.
My brother, Leo, who visited me in January of 2020 before the pandemic, would be surprised with the changes that have taken place since that short time ago. Here is one of the main changes. The heart of El Centro is Parque Calderon, and the square around it is a mecca of new restaurants and stores. Today, I will focus on the yellow limestone building on the east side across the street from Parque Calderon on Avenida Louis Cordero and Avenida Simon Bolivar.
The building in the photo above which has laid vacant for some years, has finally undergone renovation in a most fabulous way. The whole two story building, now known as Parque Casa, which running along Avenida Cordero, shares the block with the Old Cathedral, and has become a food emporium.
Parque Casa by night.
The entire second floor is occupied by Matilde Mansion Restaurant, which is partitioned into three spacious, but intimate dining rooms. There is also a fourth inner room with a large rectangular table that can seat twelve, either for a business group or private affairs. The restaurant also includes a splendid pub.
What makes Matilde Mansion worthy of attention is that it is the most elegant restaurant in the city. When I arrived in Cuenca more than ten years ago, I never thought such elegance in an eatery would be found in Cuenca. The interior design is breath-takingly beautiful, and reminds me of the Palace of Versailles outside of Paris. Matilde is not as ornately lavish and at times as garish as Versailles, which was built at the time when the French royalty were living well beyond their means, and were unwittingly laying the groundwork for their own decadent downfall through the French Revolution. However, Matilde is a lavish splendor to experience.
As the old saying goes, "A picture is worth a thousand words," so let us begin our tour.
Matildes is entered through an interior courtyard on the first floor. We make our way up the stairway.
The stairway alone is inviting and entices us to the anticipation of something grand.
The ceiling and chandeliers only enhance our expectations as we leave behind the stairway and make our way up to the Mansion.
There is no such thing as simply entering a dining area, as we arrive at the top of the stairs, but first we pass through the inner courtyard as the various dining areas radiate from the center.
There is a long table resplendent with flowers, candles, and lamps; which complement beautifully the ornate décor of the walls and ceiling, and the chandelier.
Each dining room is adorned with its own personalized very plush décor.
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The dining room above and its ceiling in the photo below has it own distinct character and appearance.
There is a interior salon that can be used for small private affairs and professional conferences over dinner. The room is an eye opener of beauty, and is done in a wall paper style of elegance that is reminiscent of a style that was very much the style in some of the restaurants in the United States in the 1980's.
Friends and I were gathering for a surprise birthday party for our friend Maria Rosa, who is the mother of Mathias, Esteban, and Andres Rios. Maria knew that her sons and I were taking her out for her birthday. However, she did not know that some of her other friends would also be there, or that the restaurant we were taking her was Matildes Mansion.
Betty Jones, and a partial view of our dining room behind her.
Above is Mathias, Betty and Mike Jones.
Unlike the other dining rooms our ceiling was painted with sky, clouds, and cherubs; so reminiscent of various palaces in Europe, as well as some of the rooms in Versailles palace.
Mathias did the decorations for the dinner party, as he sent the balloons skyward..
Friends included Loren and Nancy Kuehne.
Birthday lady Maria Rosa with Karen and Sieg Braum.
Michael and Betty Jones are below. The rose was Mathias, Esteban, and Andres' gift to their mother. The flower is alive, and is suppose to remain fresh and living for approximately five years. The perfect gift from her sons to a loving mother, whose name is Maria Rosa.
Below is Sherri Nadeau, who shares her birthday date with Mathias.
Here is a photo of me enjoying my gin and tonic. I sure am glad I have a group of friends, who enjoy going out to eat, look forward to new dining experiences, and just having fun. I am always ready for a party.
All the tables in each dining room are decorated in their own unique style and dinnerware. Our table settings were of bone china imported from England. It seems ironic that a dish called China was made in England, when almost everything else in the world is made in China.
Escargot was the favorite appetizer. They were large and plump.
The best entrées appeared to be the seafood entrées. Karen especially enjoyed her octopus, which since I was sitting at the opposite end from Karen, I don't have a picture to show you.
Fish above or surf and turf below served on beautiful china.
Below a photo of a grilled seafood platter.
Steak is tricky in Ecuador. It has improved since I first arrived over ten years ago. I failed to take a photo of my steak. The steak was good. It was not tough, but not the most tender and flavorful that now can be found in some of the restaurants in Cuenca. The steak, in a restaurant of this quality, should be among the outstanding offerings to match the lavish décor. Appetizers can also be open to a redo. I had the onion soup, and it was good, but not exceptional. A traditional French Onion would actually be better if prepared properly.
As dinner plates were cleared away, we prepared for the birthday salute and the cake and ice cream.
After a round of Feliz Cumpleanos, Maria Rosa cut the cake, as each piece was passed around. Below is a brief video.
What a better way to enjoy cake and ice cream or just simply to close out the night with a cappuccino.
Karen and Maria Rosa above and Maria Rosa with Jim Mola (me) below.
Below is Maria with two of her sons, Andres, and Esteban, with Sieg in the background.
A salute to the Birthday Lady on her special day. May she have many more birthdays and happiness to look forward to in the future.
The twelve of us spent four hours having a really wonderful time. By the last hour the many people in our dining room were gone, and we continued to enjoy the celebration.
Below, Betty could now move to the other side of the room opposite our party tables, and show off the painting on the wall.
As 11:00 p.m. enclosed upon us. It was time to say goodbye. Dapper Mike below was prepared for the almost inevitable in Cuenca--rain.
Adjacent to our dining room was the pub. Beautiful in itself, and the crowd of young people still in the bar continued to keep the night young.
Matildes Mansion is a great place for a dinner party, or just to come and enjoy a drink or a pastry and a cup of cappuccino. Ladies enjoy the afternoon Tea Room. Surprisingly, its prices are in-line with other upscale restaurants in Cuenca. Most main dishes are in the $12 to $20 range. Alcoholic drinks are comparable in price to other upscale restaurants in Cuenca as well. When we first visited, we thought menu prices would be the most expensive in Cuenca, but that to date has not been the case. A lavish evening like this in a luxurious restaurant in major European or American cities like Chicago would cost us two to three times the price here in Cuenca. We shall return!
When visiting Lima for the first time, I would highly recommend the Water Park. It consists of thirteen fountains, and other entertainment for the kids as well. The park is large (19 acres), and holds the Guinness Book of World Records for the largest water fountain park in the world. Therefore, be prepared for some serious walking. or take the train around the park. Of course, the best time to view the park is in the evening. Otherwise, one misses the fountains bathed in colored lights, and the hologram program scheduled at various times in the evening which takes place in the largest expanse of water fountains in the park.
Entrance to the Park
The park was transformed into a water park in 2007 at the price of $13 million U.S. dollars. Many critics thought the price was outrageous, but it has become Lima's biggest tour attraction. Lima, because it lacks rain, is also perfect for such a park. Not a day goes by, that rain prevents the park from being accessible and enjoyed. There's no raining on our parade. The park is closed, however, on Mondays.
You can choo-choo around the park.
Juana Carchi, one of our two Cuecana traveling buddies.
The fountain below was decorated for Valentine's Day.
The Fantasia fountain is the park's premier fountain at a length of 130 yards. With all of the fountains there are endless changes of colors, and the continuously changing sizes of the sprays.
I myself, have never been to Disney World. However, one reviewer on Trip Advisor commented that after seeing the Disney water presentation, they did not expect much from the Lima water park, but were surprisingly blown away by its size and spectacle.
I had visited the park before in my July 2015 visit to Lima. My companions and I were tired that evening and almost didn't go. My friend's husband chose to stay behind at our Airbnb. My friend and I trekked out to the park, and were so glad we went. It rejuvenated us, and we spent a couple of hours walking around, and having time to sit and just enjoy the fountains and the park. This time in later January, the night was humid; so not quite as relaxing, but still enjoyable.
Children's water park play area.
The fountain below with calibrated sporadic water flows and other surprises was a big favorite of the older kids, teens, and young adults as they maneuvered around the unexpected sprays and drenchings. Definitely repeated soakings were a promise. There is also a change area and lockers where people can change into dry clothes after they've had their water fun.
The fountain in the three photos below is a walk-through.
Juana Carchi and her son, Paul Tacuri, our traveling companions in Lima.
Below is the hologram of laser, light, and water presentations from my 2015 visit, because the clarity was far better than my photos of the laser show this year. Also, the program was different, which may change every year; but I enjoyed the 2015 performance better. That past performance included classical, pop, and Peruvian folk music. Besides people, as seen in my photos; it also included nature scenes, flowers, and psychedelic patterns. I found the 2015 presentation to be more creative and imaginative than this year's program.
One of my favorite spots in the park as seen in the photo above and a number of them below is this pillared walkway which leads to what may be a reception hall.
It is like walking through a colonnade in a Roman palace from antiquity--simply beautiful.
Paul, Juana, and Leo Mola
Jim, Juana, and Leo
Imagine the immense amounts of water used to facilitate all of these fountains throughout the park simultaneously. I marvel at the engineering and the computer programming and the power of the pumps for everything required to work without a hitch and be synchronized accordingly. The people of Lima have much of which to be proud in their urban park, which has a well deserved international reputation.
It was in December of 2009 that I accidentally turned to Yahoo during one Christmas vacation morning and saw the list for the ten best cities in which to retire. Cuenca which I had never heard of before was listed as number one. Only Cuenca of the top ten cities did I not find anything negative. I began my research of Cuenca, and fell in love with it before I even made my exploratory journey of one month to this South Andean city in July/August of 2010. My greatest fear was that there was no way Cuenca could live up to my expectations. However, when the month came to completion, I did not want to leave. I retired in January of 2011, and moved to Cuenca the following March. I don't know where the time has gone. On one hand, my visit of 2010 seems so long ago after all the multitudinous changes that have taken place in my life since then. On the other hand, my time here has gone by so fast that it is scary to think how quickly the next few years of my life will speed by as well. The beautiful thing is that Cuenca is my home, and I did not choose Cuenca. It truly was destiny that led me to this beautiful city in the mountains.
