My mission in publishing this blog is first to provide a living history of my settlement and life in Cuenca, and to provide myself and the reader with a journal account delineating my reasons for why I have chosen to settle in Cuenca. Second, the posts are my way of staying in contact with family and friends back in the states, and to provide them with an understanding of a country and culture that most North Americans have little knowledge and awareness. Third, the blog is open to one and all who wish to compare and contrast the experiences of expat bloggers living in Cuenca, so that you can determine whether or not from your perspective Cuenca is an appropriate move for you. Fourth, my blog provides another example of how expats view and interpret life in Cuenca. Ecuadorians and Cuencanos who may read this blog are especially invited to post comments that may enhance all expats understanding and appreciation of Cuneca and its people, or to correct any misinterpretations in my assumptions and perceptions of Cuencano culture. Finally, I hope I can convey the feeling of love and appreciation that grows within me each passing day for this heavenly city nestled in the Andes and its very special people.
A great many changes have taken place in El Centro in recent months. When the lockdowns turned Cuenca into a virtual ghost town, I thought much of the center would be filled with vacant buildings when the covid scare ended; just the opposite happened. The city is more vibrant than ever. Many owners of businesses in the city have lowered rents either to avoid losing commercial renters or to fill their vacant stores and offices. Much of South America and the United States are experiencing steep inflation spikes. At the moment, as reported by the government; Ecuador has been moving in the opposite direction.
My brother, Leo, who visited me in January of 2020 before the pandemic, would be surprised with the changes that have taken place since that short time ago. Here is one of the main changes. The heart of El Centro is Parque Calderon, and the square around it is a mecca of new restaurants and stores. Today, I will focus on the yellow limestone building on the east side across the street from Parque Calderon on Avenida Louis Cordero and Avenida Simon Bolivar.
The building in the photo above which has laid vacant for some years, has finally undergone renovation in a most fabulous way. The whole two story building, now known as Parque Casa, which running along Avenida Cordero, shares the block with the Old Cathedral, and has become a food emporium.
Parque Casa by night.
The entire second floor is occupied by Matilde Mansion Restaurant, which is partitioned into three spacious, but intimate dining rooms. There is also a fourth inner room with a large rectangular table that can seat twelve, either for a business group or private affairs. The restaurant also includes a splendid pub.
What makes Matilde Mansion worthy of attention is that it is the most elegant restaurant in the city. When I arrived in Cuenca more than ten years ago, I never thought such elegance in an eatery would be found in Cuenca. The interior design is breath-takingly beautiful, and reminds me of the Palace of Versailles outside of Paris. Matilde is not as ornately lavish and at times as garish as Versailles, which was built at the time when the French royalty were living well beyond their means, and were unwittingly laying the groundwork for their own decadent downfall through the French Revolution. However, Matilde is a lavish splendor to experience.
As the old saying goes, "A picture is worth a thousand words," so let us begin our tour.
Matildes is entered through an interior courtyard on the first floor. We make our way up the stairway.
The stairway alone is inviting and entices us to the anticipation of something grand.
The ceiling and chandeliers only enhance our expectations as we leave behind the stairway and make our way up to the Mansion.
There is no such thing as simply entering a dining area, as we arrive at the top of the stairs, but first we pass through the inner courtyard as the various dining areas radiate from the center.
There is a long table resplendent with flowers, candles, and lamps; which complement beautifully the ornate décor of the walls and ceiling, and the chandelier.
Each dining room is adorned with its own personalized very plush décor.
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The dining room above and its ceiling in the photo below has it own distinct character and appearance.
There is a interior salon that can be used for small private affairs and professional conferences over dinner. The room is an eye opener of beauty, and is done in a wall paper style of elegance that is reminiscent of a style that was very much the style in some of the restaurants in the United States in the 1980's.
Friends and I were gathering for a surprise birthday party for our friend Maria Rosa, who is the mother of Mathias, Esteban, and Andres Rios. Maria knew that her sons and I were taking her out for her birthday. However, she did not know that some of her other friends would also be there, or that the restaurant we were taking her was Matildes Mansion.
Betty Jones, and a partial view of our dining room behind her.
Above is Mathias, Betty and Mike Jones.
Unlike the other dining rooms our ceiling was painted with sky, clouds, and cherubs; so reminiscent of various palaces in Europe, as well as some of the rooms in Versailles palace.
Mathias did the decorations for the dinner party, as he sent the balloons skyward..
Friends included Loren and Nancy Kuehne.
Birthday lady Maria Rosa with Karen and Sieg Braum.
Michael and Betty Jones are below. The rose was Mathias, Esteban, and Andres' gift to their mother. The flower is alive, and is suppose to remain fresh and living for approximately five years. The perfect gift from her sons to a loving mother, whose name is Maria Rosa.
Below is Sherri Nadeau, who shares her birthday date with Mathias.
Here is a photo of me enjoying my gin and tonic. I sure am glad I have a group of friends, who enjoy going out to eat, look forward to new dining experiences, and just having fun. I am always ready for a party.
All the tables in each dining room are decorated in their own unique style and dinnerware. Our table settings were of bone china imported from England. It seems ironic that a dish called China was made in England, when almost everything else in the world is made in China.
Escargot was the favorite appetizer. They were large and plump.
The best entrées appeared to be the seafood entrées. Karen especially enjoyed her octopus, which since I was sitting at the opposite end from Karen, I don't have a picture to show you.
Fish above or surf and turf below served on beautiful china.
Below a photo of a grilled seafood platter.
Steak is tricky in Ecuador. It has improved since I first arrived over ten years ago. I failed to take a photo of my steak. The steak was good. It was not tough, but not the most tender and flavorful that now can be found in some of the restaurants in Cuenca. The steak, in a restaurant of this quality, should be among the outstanding offerings to match the lavish décor. Appetizers can also be open to a redo. I had the onion soup, and it was good, but not exceptional. A traditional French Onion would actually be better if prepared properly.
As dinner plates were cleared away, we prepared for the birthday salute and the cake and ice cream.
After a round of Feliz Cumpleanos, Maria Rosa cut the cake, as each piece was passed around. Below is a brief video.
What a better way to enjoy cake and ice cream or just simply to close out the night with a cappuccino.
Karen and Maria Rosa above and Maria Rosa with Jim Mola (me) below.
Below is Maria with two of her sons, Andres, and Esteban, with Sieg in the background.
A salute to the Birthday Lady on her special day. May she have many more birthdays and happiness to look forward to in the future.
The twelve of us spent four hours having a really wonderful time. By the last hour the many people in our dining room were gone, and we continued to enjoy the celebration.
Below, Betty could now move to the other side of the room opposite our party tables, and show off the painting on the wall.
As 11:00 p.m. enclosed upon us. It was time to say goodbye. Dapper Mike below was prepared for the almost inevitable in Cuenca--rain.
Adjacent to our dining room was the pub. Beautiful in itself, and the crowd of young people still in the bar continued to keep the night young.
Matildes Mansion is a great place for a dinner party, or just to come and enjoy a drink or a pastry and a cup of cappuccino. Ladies enjoy the afternoon Tea Room. Surprisingly, its prices are in-line with other upscale restaurants in Cuenca. Most main dishes are in the $12 to $20 range. Alcoholic drinks are comparable in price to other upscale restaurants in Cuenca as well. When we first visited, we thought menu prices would be the most expensive in Cuenca, but that to date has not been the case. A lavish evening like this in a luxurious restaurant in major European or American cities like Chicago would cost us two to three times the price here in Cuenca. We shall return!
The ninth of December 2020 was a most enjoyable celebration of Chef Michael Wagner's culinary wizardry, as he and his two assistants, Mariano and David, prepared tapas and a champagne seafood paella dinner for approximately fifteen guests at my home.
Long before I arose from my night of slumber, Chef Michael arrived early in the morning to deliver all of the food needed for preparation as well as the grill for the cooking of the paella. Michael, as his two assistants began preparing the creation of the tapas, would return later to explain and demonstrate the step-by-step process of his paella preparation to the guests, after they arrived and feasted on the tapas.
Tapas Preparation
David, below, cuts the meat to be used in the tapas.
Mariano sautés the garlic.
Below, the tapa begins to take form.
Mathias Rios is one of the two brothers living with me to practice their English and I my Spanish. Simultaneously, they also use my Internet for their classes on Zoom, while the schools are closed in Cuenca due to the Covid. Mathias is smacking his lips; waiting with anticipation to make his way through the tapas, as the finishing touches are added and soon to be served to our guests hot from the oven.
Four tapas were prepared, and beyond a doubt, they were the best tapas I ever enjoyed either in Cuenca, the United States, or in Spain. Generally, I find tapas to be skimpy on toppings and fillings, and expensive, dry, or offering little in the way of a taste worth savoring. The one exception was in Barcelona, where one tapas bar served great tapas, and they also cost me a fortune. Michael's tapas were quite large, and could have been a meal in themselves. Everybody commented on how superb the tapas were. Michael made me a believer in how good tapas are when prepared properly and lovingly by chefs who value quality and artistry.
Below is a photo of Sherry Nadeau, Mike Jones, Betty Jones, and Nancy Kuehne as they enjoy conversation while beginning their trek into the world of tapas--Michael Wagner style.
Maria Rosa and her son, Esteban Rios, the younger brother of Mathias Rios, as they both enjoy the tapas.
Below is the youngest Rios brother, Andres, who is enjoying his tapas while watching cartoons. Rios means rivers in Spanish. There are four rivers running through Cuenca like the Rio Tomebamba, which is the river only a short block from me. The brothers claim that the four rivers are their primos or cousins.
Below are good friends Mike and Betty Jones with yours truly.
Friends Loren Kuehne, Jerry Ramos, and Sherri Nadeau
Below eight year old Andres, who is destined to be a favorite with the girls.
Also in attendance were friends Daniela Valez and her son, David.
I could not get the photo below to color properly. David's hair kept coming out blue. I was amazed that the best photo composition of Daniela and David came out in black and white--a great photo of a mother and her teen son.
Michael Wagner and the Paella Preparation
After our indulgence in the tapas, time for further conversation, and the arrival of Michael; we were ready for his presentation of how he prepares his Paella step by step. Michael brought his own grill with him, which can vary in sizes dependent upon the number of people for whom he is cooking.
Michael is a true showman, who immensely enjoys cooking, and always shares his enthusiasm in his demonstrations.
Michael starts with his base of oils, green and red peppers, onions, and garlic. He explains the various spices and sauces he uses, the addition of champagne, and how they each add a variety of flavors that soon blend into a tantalizing, savoring sauce that permeates the seafood and sears in the taste.
Eventually, the bountiful langostinos (large prawns) are added, along with camarones (shrimp), calamares (squid), and the almejas (clams).
Maria Rosa and Chef Michael
Mike and Jim contributing our two cents worth.
Guests gather around to pickup points on Michael's cooking preparation.
The sight of the prepared skillet below was just mouth-watering, and a work of art to the eye.
Mathias, our food critic gives his seal of approval to Michael and David for an excellent outcome. While Michael can take full pride in a preparation more than well done with a thumbs up.
Truly a meal fit for a king.
Below Mike Jones and Esteban waiting to be served.
Below is David, Daniela, and Jim enjoying the paella.
Esteban and Sherry's Birthday Celebration
Michael also made the cake for our dessert and birthday celebration, although the birthday party was a surprise for Esteban's fourteenth birthday, we made sure that the cake would be made to Esteban's specifications, as Michael can make any cake or torta and postres (pastries) as desired. The cake required chocolate, strawberries, whipped cream, and Michael's surprise of raspberries.
In the photo below, Mariano adds the finishing touches. If you are a chocoholic, this cake is to absolutely die for. It was chocolate decadency at its zenith. Very rich, fabulously moist, made with four different types of high quality chocolate including chocolate ganache. The raspberries between the layers were a welcomed surprise, and complemented the moisture of the cake and set its flavor off beautifully.
As I recall, this was a four layer cake. Luckily, for me I discovered that after everybody left for the evening; in the refrigerator there were two layers left over without the frosting, and only Mathias and Esteban to help me eat it. The chocolate cake by itself was sooo incredibly good! Michael was so considerate.
Birthday boy, Esteban, better known as "Joven Chevere" (Mister Cool)
Below is "Joven Chevere" with his very proud mother, Maria Rosa.
I finally remembered to sport my Panama hat. All of which have always been designed and created in Ecuador. Teddy Roosevelt made the hats popular, which at the time were bought in Panama, and the name stuck. While "chevere" means 'cool' in Ecuatoriano español. Señor Mola, believe it or not, means Mr. Cool in the Castilian Spanish of Spain. Thanks to everybody there, it was a cool party.
Sherry, my neighbor, also had her birthday that day. While Esteban was turning fourteen, Sherry was enjoying her sweet sixteen birthday.
Michael led us in a rousing Happy Birthday chorus for our two stars, and Sherry left it to Esteban to blow out the candles. Esteban learned quickly that is was no easy task as the candles kept reigniting.
Michael also did the honors of cutting the cake. As demonstrated by Loren and Nancy, whip cream was a must as well, as if the cake wasn't rich enough.
Below, while enjoying the cake, in the back behind Jerry, one can see Mathias playing the guitar as background music to entertain us. As long as I live, I will always associate 'Bello Ciao' with the Rios brothers.
Old my goodness! Whose piece of cake is that, and the whipped cream hasn't been added yet?!?!
All and all, it was a memorable evening with great friends enjoying and indulging in Michael Wagner's extraordinary skills and experience as a master chef, which made for a wonderful time and a extraordinary meal. Cuenca is so very lucky to be blessed with Michael and his superb talents.
Michael Wagner
Chef Michael also offers cooking classes for up to ten people, either in your home or in his culinary kitchen.
He also offers catering for all kinds of celebrations--large and small.
Michael's Contact:
+(593) 099 946 6241
Michael's Email:
michaelwagner77@hotmail.com
Michael's Restaurant: Restaurante Rancho Alegre
It is of typical Ecuadorian meals and almuerzos.
Address: In middle of Panamericana sur, 15 minutes from the center of the city of Cuenca, Ecuador.
It was in December of 2009 that I accidentally turned to Yahoo during one Christmas vacation morning and saw the list for the ten best cities in which to retire. Cuenca which I had never heard of before was listed as number one. Only Cuenca of the top ten cities did I not find anything negative. I began my research of Cuenca, and fell in love with it before I even made my exploratory journey of one month to this South Andean city in July/August of 2010. My greatest fear was that there was no way Cuenca could live up to my expectations. However, when the month came to completion, I did not want to leave. I retired in January of 2011, and moved to Cuenca the following March. I don't know where the time has gone. On one hand, my visit of 2010 seems so long ago after all the multitudinous changes that have taken place in my life since then. On the other hand, my time here has gone by so fast that it is scary to think how quickly the next few years of my life will speed by as well. The beautiful thing is that Cuenca is my home, and I did not choose Cuenca. It truly was destiny that led me to this beautiful city in the mountains.
