Early Christmas Season 2022

It was a great weekend as we celebrated Esteban Rios' birthday (December 6th), my birthday (December 12th), and our farewells to Cameron Neeley as he began his return to Connecticut and family on the 11th of December after a sporadic year of traveling about in Ecuador, with most of the time spent in Cuenca.  

By this weekend the Christmas decorations were up in Cuenca. and the main computer tree was located this December in Parque Mira Flores.  In recent years the tree is always away from the centro area in outlying neighborhoods where few tourists even know where to find it. It also makes it inconvenient for many Cuecanos because El Centro is the very center and heart of Cuenca, which is the ideal location for the tree.  This year, however, the park is near the tranvía route, so it should help the tranvía with more riders, as well as the tourists who should have an easy time to arrive at Mira Flores. The tranvía is proving to be a big success. The government has already been able to reduce the subsidy to cover the cost of running it. 

Additional meters were also added to the Christmas tree this year, so Cuenca could continue to brag about having the tallest Christmas tree in Ecuador.  More meters required thousands of additional lights to further illuminate the tallest Christmas tree in Ecuador.  We are looking forward to seeing what kind of computer program will be used on the tree this year, as it varies every Christmas season.

A number of my friends and I finally were all well again from the grip or whatever respiratory ailments we endured especially during the month of November and the first week of December. We celebrated at Tiesto's Restaurant, owned by Juan Carlos and his wife, of which Juan Carlos is also the chef.  A favorite restaurant that practically any tourist looking for an exquisite meal visits while in Cuenca.  We wanted this to be a memorable meal, especially since Cameron was returning to the states and had not yet dined at Tiesto's. Neither had Jerry Ramos, and the Rios trio were quite young when they last remember eating at Tiesto's. In a Catholic country like Ecuador, not to dine at Tiesto's is a mortal sin and rightly so.  In fact, I would say that it is down-right sacrilegious to visit Cuenca and not dine at Tiesto's.

     Below are Andres Rios, James Mola, and Mathias Rios

Below are Regina Urgiles and Cameron Neeley enjoying

as an appetizer, the logistinos (large prawns).  All of us ordered a plate for the eight of us so we could each have one to eat.  Not only are they splendidly delicious, which is the only way Tiesto's can prepare them, but also when they come out steaming hot and sizzling, we know we are in for something very tantalizingly special.

• Link for the video of the Langostinos:

https://youtube.com/shorts/2AXBD_jOtfY?feature=share

The steaks are tender and succulent at Tiesto's.  By now, Juan Carlos knows what I intend to order when I bring guests better than I remember.  I love the medallions of steaks where each guests can order steaks, medium-rare with a different sauce, and there are enough medallions to go around to each guest.  Steak in blue cheese sauce, steak in mustard sauce which is very good, steak in Mora (blackberry sauce) for a sweeter taste. There is also a type of Italian red sauce, and the Tiesto Special, which is also very good.  Of course, if a customer wants to order just a full steak without the sauces, the menu calls for that as well.  There are many other dishes on the menu.  Tiesto's is not solely a steak house.

• Link for the first video of the meat:

https://youtu.be/6TUyd2dEhO8

• Link for the second video of the meat:

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZoecwLtt2TE?feature=share

• Link for the video of the happy birthday song by the staff:

https://youtu.be/HYvSuLR88Bc

• Link for the video of the cake for the birthday guys:

https://youtu.be/dRqK9PLAbZo

Jerry Ramos; Regina Urgeles; Cameron Neeley; Maria Rosa; Birthday Joven Numero Uno, Esteban Rios; Andres Rios; Birthday Boy Numeral Dos, James Mola; Mathias Rios

After we celebrated at Tiesto's,  we walked to Parque Calderon to see what decorations had been installed for the holiday season.

      One of the three domes of the New Cathedral

                                                    

           View along Simon Bolivar in El Centro

                                                  

                     Views Along Parque Calderon

                                          

Gazebo in Parque Calderon featuring Mathias, James, 

Cameron, Esteban, and  Andres.

                     

Esteban, James, Cameron, 

Andres, and Mathias standing 

in across Simon Bolivar from 

the Vatex Galleria. 

Vatex Galleria is Four Floors of Men's and Women's Wear in an 

Old World Eighteenth Century Elegant Setting. 

This Year, the Galleria outdid itself in its Elaborate Christmas 

Lights on One of the Most Ornate Buildings in El Centro.

                                         

In the photo below, on top of the Vatex Galleria is 

Negroni's Restaurant (One Can See the Canopies on the 

Roof for Outdoor Dining on Three Sides) which Includes a 

Central Interior Restaurant as well.  Negroni's is one of the 

Best Upscale Restaurants in the City both for Cuisine and 

Service, and with the Best Views of the City of the immediate 

Parque Calderon and Surrounding Square in the Very Heart of 

El Centro.

 The Christmas Tree here in Parque Calderon is not the 

mammoth Computerized tree located in Parque Mira Flores.  

The New Cathedral can be seen in the background. 

The next day I get a call, let's go eat cuy, the guinea pig is considered a delicacy in the Andes.  The coastal Ecuadorians look their noses up at the thought of eating guinea pig.  

Even Regina, a Cuencana, who dined with us at Tiesto's the previous evening had exclaimed, "No cuy.  Cuy is a rat, I will not eat a rat!" The waiter at Tiesto's overheard the discussion.  So when he brought the covered tiesto to the table with one of the steak medallions, he jokingly announced cuy.  Jerry said that's not ours, we didn't order cuy, and Regina said, "Oh no, not cuy!" The waiter got the last laugh when he uncovered the medallions of steak in mustard sauce.

Well, cuy is in the rodent family, just like rabbit and squirrel.  I've eaten cuy so many times now, that for me the fuss is much to do about nothing.  It just has to be prepared properly so it doesn't grill too dry, or come out to greasy.  Cuy, to me, tastes like a cross between chicken and pork.  So off we went to Guajibamba Cuy Restaurant in El Centro on Avenida Luis Cordero, which was the same restaurant I had taken my son, Marc, to when he visited seven years ago, and had his first experience with cuy.

Now to look at the photo below one would think that Andres would rather die than eat cuy, but don't be fooled by his dour expression.  He loves cuy.

Delicious crispy skin cuy.  The little feet can be used as paddles to help you hold the cuy steady while you eat it.  The cuyes are usually cut in halves or quarters.  They are farm grown, so they are fed a good diet.

Our main reason for eating cuy that Saturday afternoon was a 

farewell dinner for Cameron Neeley has he would be returning to 

his home in Connecticut, and he had not eaten cuy yet.  No 

one should be permitted out of Ecuador until they have had 

their passport stamped with an official cuy label verifying that 

they had eaten cuy.

Ready, set, go, Cameron!

Cameron displays the head of the cuy in the photos below.  You 

can see the teeth.

Looking a little squeamish, are you Cameron? 

Cameron was having the time of his life, although I don't think that he would vote cuy as his favorite dish.  I  also forgot to tell him as well, that when a person eats cuy it changes a person's gnome structure.  One becomes part cuy and part human.  Also the head isn't usually eaten, but we didn't tell Cameron that.  It is said that if you eat the head, it will bring you very good luck, if it doesn't kill you first.

Esteban takes his stab at the cuy's head.

Esteban, being a true Cuencano, loves cuy too.

What seemed like three years ago is now seven years since my son, Marc, visited Ecuador this time of year during the Christmas season of 2015.  Where does the time go?  I met Marc at the airport in Quito. We spent a few days there, and then we picked up with our excellent guide, Milton, and traveled to Banos-Ambato which was wonderful experience.  There is so much to do there, and the highlight is the Devil's Cauldron. Then onward to Chimborazo, which was one of the greatest experiences of my life.  Moving southward to Sayausi and what was then the Devil's Nose train, then to the Inca ruins in Ingapirca, and our arrival for almost week in Cuenca, which by now had its Christmas decorations up, and finally a ride through the Cajas to Guayaquil.  The Malecon was awesomely decorated, and we luckily were there to see the night time Christmas parade with marching bands, floats. balloons like in the Macy's Day Parade, but not so many stories as high.  It ended a perfect two weeks before my son flew out of Guayaquil the next day.  

My best time in my life with Marc was his visit to Ecuador and then in 2017, when I visited him in Beirut, Lebanon for two weeks.  I was very enamored with Beirut and I owed that to Marc.  To this day, I am still very saddened over the harsh fate that Beirut continues to suffer, just when it appeared to be getting back on its feet.

                                           December, 2015

A Very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to

Friends and Family !

John 3:16

"For God so loved the world, that He gave His only Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have eternal life."

SEMINARIO SAN LUIS PLAZA

 

Today's post is the third and final post of the changing restaurant scene around Parque Calderon, the heart of El Centro and the city of Cuenca.  The Seminario San Luis Plaza is the oldest of the changes to the restaurant scene, which  opened in 2018.  The site lies to the west of Parque Calderon on Avenida Benigno Malo adjacent to the New Cathedral, which is the name everybody calls the church.  The Cathedral  was actually constructed in the 1800's and its official  name is the Cathedral de la Inmaculada Concepcion. The seminary began in the early 1800's, but is no longer used as a seminary.  Today, the main courtyard has been renovated into restaurants and eateries, and began the trend that would spread around the Calderon Park square.

The photo below is a view of the New Cathedral, the domes of the cathedral seen behind the trees, and the frontage area consists of two mainstays.  Almost every tourist and Cuecano visits on the corner,  Tutto Freddo, the ice cream and pastry emporium, which has outlets all over the city.  To the left of Tutto Freddo is Ramipampa, and Ecuadorian restaurant with good food and reasonable prices, and is usually where many tourists get their first taste of Ecuadorian food when they visit Cuenca.

Balloons and vendors are found on the street 

in front of the restaurants.

To the left of Ramipampa Restaurant is
the entrance way to the courtyard of
San Luis Seminario Plaza. 

Below, in the courtyard is a musician
preparing
for an evening of entertainment. 

Almost all of my photos were taken from
the second floor terrace of the plaza.

Below, is a panoramic view of the 

south and west side of the courtyard which 

provides the best view of the domes.

The  renovation of the
domes was completed last year, and they
provide a spectacular view from any angle
of the city. 
Their color lighting also changes dependent
upon the festival season.

The plaza is resplendent with flowers and bougainvilleas.                                                                      

El Confesionario offers very good meals, and standout cakes, cappuccinos and mochachinos as well.  It is only fitting that the name of the restaurant,  located in a former seminary to train young men for the priesthood, would play off the Catholic theme of confession.

Below, the wait-staff is busy meeting the demands of 

Confessionario patrons, in what was a very busy Friday evening

throughout the Seminario Plaza.  

Below is an example of some of the art work along the walls of the terrace.

Below, these are just two examples along the terrace of art works  that are made from coffee beans.

The terrace is wide, and while there is indoor restaurant spaces.  It is the outdoor courtyard and terrace space which is valued for seating; and for gazing at the domes, the architecture, the shrubs, the flowers, 

and the people.

Courtyard seating is on the lower level, with a evening enjoyed by young people.

 

The next four photos below are of Mayu Bar and Grill, which is more of a hamburger, nachos place that attracts primarily young people.  I love the ceiling and the artwork behind the bar.

As we walk along the south side of the courtyard, we pass Felippe Italian Restaurant, which serves a variety of pasta dishes, pizza, and antipasti plates.  The photo below shows Filippi located on the terrace, and immediately below it are the eateries in the courtyard for some of the restaurants and coffee shops.  

Below at Felippe's are two photos of the Italian cheeses they also sell, while the pizza maker is busy at work.

Ah, but the spectacle of the evening is always the domes of the cathedral, located just above Mayu and Felippe restaurantes.

Above, the more dining type of restaurants are on the second floor.  The first floor includes more coffee and pastry shoppes, an ice cream shoppe,  restaurants that offer lighter fares like YAW, which includes a menu of sandwiches, various coffees and pastries,  Las Cruces (The Crosses) offers Ecuadorian dishes, and a French Bistro named Le Bistro is also featured.

Through YAW, one can walk out to another inner courtyard that is a garden and owned, operated, and maintained by the Catholic Church, as seen in the two photos below:

One afternoon, my friend Jerry Ramos and I were having a tranquilo lunch in one of the lower courtyard restaurants.  Jerry saw a young couple in the courtyard, who were attempting to take a photo of themselves.  Jerry got up from his lunch, walked halfway across the courtyard and offered to take a photo of the couple together.  When he returned, a reporter for one of the local papers witnessed Jerry's act of kindness.  He walked over to our table, and talked about how in today's world more such acts of kindness are needed, and we continued in a brief conversation.  Neither Jerry nor I anticipated that a photo of us would be in the local paper.  I heard about it from another friend who had seen the photo and article, although neither Jerry nor I ever saw the photo or article.

It was a beautiful day.  The type of day that makes me so thrilled that I live in Cuenca.  However, as taxi drivers will sometimes say about the climate in Cuenca, "She has the changing moods of a woman".  Before we could ever imagine a sudden change in weather, the sun gave way to an immediate heavy hailstorm.  The two videos below show the storm.  Cuencanos  get excited about  heavy hail storms, because they have to go much higher in the mountains then our 8,400 feet to see snow. 

https://youtu.be/OsmQfg-O0_s

https://youtu.be/tR1f3OL5lFQ

Adjacent to San Luis Seminario is the entrance to a narrow passageway, which the adjoining cathedral had walled off for years.  A few years ago, the passageway was opened to the public.  Some of the restaurants in the courtyard have entrances along the passageway, as well as an entrance to the courtyard itself.

The days of the $1.50 amuerzos (set lunches) when I arrived in my 2010 visit to Cuenca are gone.  Most amuerzos are now now $2.50 to $3.50.  Executive lunches can be more expensive.  Oftentimes, the lesser expensive amuerzo is heavy on a huge pile of rice, a small piece of thinly cut meat, a sliver of ensalada, possibly a glass of juice, and a small dessert.  When I first arrived, the dishes often included plantains and potatoes as well as rice.  The amuerzo was a diet very heavy on carbs.  So now the prices are higher with less variety offered, and rice is cheap.  

However, Ecuador is not experiencing a rise in inflation.  Gas, as government subsidies have been removed, has gone up considerably, and restaurant food prices in my opinion have seen the biggest increase over the last decade.  As President Lasso, our new president, has been removing many tariffs on imports, prices like liquor, cell phones, computers are all falling into range more with the United States. Apartment rentals are very inexpensive, and we have been showing more signs of deflation than inflation.

The passageway has a number of black metal art works along the way, which silhouette the various churches in El Centro.

To the rear of the passageway is outside eating both along the lower terrace and straight ahead, plus further patio seating--all provided by  the restaurant-lounge, Distrito,which is more of a lounge with limited seating.

One of the things I most enjoy about all of these new eateries is that they create many unique dishes      or twists to familiar dishes, whether they are soups, salads, appetizers, main courses, or desserts.

This blog post would not  be complete without a focus on the north side of the street across from Parque Calderon.  There is a fabulous upscale clothing store named Vatex galleries of four stories. The interior is done in the colonial renaissance style. On the rooftop is the restaurant, Negroni, which has terraces on three sides, where diners can enjoy fantastic views of the city.  There is an inner restaurant in the center.  Along with great views and very good food; we are also blessed with the administrator, Giovanni Gonzalez, who is very personable, enjoyable with whom to talk, very attentive to the diner's needs, and holds his waitstaff to the same high standards of service.

In the photo below, looking to the background behind Mathias, who is enjoying his meal on the terrace; one can get a glimpse of the interior restaurant.

Esteban, Maria Rosa, Mathias, and Jim with a background from the Negroni Restaurant of the New 

Cathedral domes.

The photo above is another striking view of Casa del Parque building taken from Negroni, which was presented in my last two posts.

The photos below are photos of the clothing galeria, under different settings and lighting, and a couple of brief videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0lA7klVO78

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2Wp1FvhNN4

All these spectacular changes of the last three years are centered around 

the focal point of Parque Calderon,  without the park such dramatic changes 

would not have taken place in one locale.  Just another feature, which makes 

Cuenca not only a walking city, but also one which is very convenient for tourists. 

The best way to end today's blog post is with a photo of a friendly St. Bernard. Considering all the Catholic churches in the immediate vicinity of Parque Calderon, the area can feel like a mini-Vatican City.  Therefore, it is only fitting that the park should have its only living saint.  St. Bernard is the patron saint of skiers and the Alps.  We don't have the Alps in Ecuador, but the Cajas Mountains are just outside our city of Cuenca, minus the snow.