2012 Cuenca Perspectives Collage

2012 Cuenca Perspectives Collage
VIVA CUENCA

VIVA CUENCA!

My mission in publishing this blog is first to provide a living history of my settlement and life in Cuenca, and to provide myself and the reader with a journal account delineating my reasons for why I have chosen to settle in Cuenca. Second, the posts are my way of staying in contact with family and friends back in the states, and to provide them with an understanding of a country and culture that most North Americans have little knowledge and awareness. Third, the blog is open to one and all who wish to compare and contrast the experiences of expat bloggers living in Cuenca, so that you can determine whether or not from your perspective Cuenca is an appropriate move for you. Fourth, my blog provides another example of how expats view and interpret life in Cuenca. Ecuadorians and Cuencanos who may read this blog are especially invited to post comments that may enhance all expats understanding and appreciation of Cuneca and its people, or to correct any misinterpretations in my assumptions and perceptions of Cuencano culture. Finally, I hope I can convey the feeling of love and appreciation that grows within me each passing day for this heavenly city nestled in the Andes and its very special people.

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

EXPATFINDER.COM INTERVIEW

This is a current interview that soon will be posted on the blog site, ExpatFinder.com.  If you are a recent expat newly minted here in Cuenca, or if you are planning a visit or a move to Cuenca, you may find the following interview of value to you:



James Mola
67 years old
U.S.A.
Former educator, currently retired


1) Where are you originally from?
    
     I was born and raised in the Chicago area of the United States.
 
a.    What made you move out of your home country?

High cost-of-living, polar winters, hot and often humid summers, windy conditions--all contributed as push factors for leaving the United States.

2)  Where are you living now?

      I live in Cuenca, Ecuador.  Cuenca is located in the Southern Andes at
      approximately 8,200 feet elevation.  Despite our high altitude, we never
      have snow nor freezing temperatures due to the fact that Cuenca is
      just south of the Equator.

3) How long have you been living in Ecuador?

     I have been living in Ecuador for over 3 ½ years now.

a.    What has been the most difficult experience you’ve had when you were new in your host country?

Not speaking Spanish may have been the most difficult experience.  Nevertheless, there are many Ecuadorians who lived in the United States and upon their return provide facilitation services for a fee to expats.  The services can include rentals, property purchases, home furnishing purchases, setting up bank accounts, handling visa procedures, etc.  Therefore, English-speaking Ecuadorians made the entire process of settlement for me relatively easy.

Since I arrived, the expat community has grown, and more expats have lived here for a longer period of time, so there are many expats who can now be of help as well.  The city government also established in the last two years a special security force in El Centro, whose members walk the streets around Parque Calderon.  These security members are friendly, competent in English, and help both tourists and expats alike with their questions.

4) Would you say that formalities like getting visas or work permits and
     international health insurance were particularly difficult in Ecuador?
     What was your experience with these?

     When I arrived in 2011, procuring a visa was difficult.  The government
     office responsible for issuing visas was in disarray.  However, that
     problem was rectified later that year.  Generally, the visa procedure is
     much easier to complete today. 

     There are a myriad of health insurance policies both international and
      local, which need to be considered.  Many hospitals in Cuenca also
      offer their own policies.  Health insurance is relatively inexpensive in
      Ecuador compared with rates in the United States.  The physicians and
      medical practitioners spend incredible amounts of time with patients in
      Cuenca compared with the time physicians spend with patients in the
      United States.  Medical care ranks from good to excellent in Cuenca at
      a fraction of what the cost is in the states.  Ecuador has not yet been
      ruined by the philosophy of  maximizing profits at the expense of
      the customers, clients, or patients.  Nor is Ecuador a culture of people
      who are quick to sue.

      By far, the most negative problem with which I have had to deal as an
      expat has been governmental and financial institutional bureaucracies.
      Whether here in Ecuador or with institutions in the United States, it
      makes no difference.  Bureaucrats make up rules as they go along, or
      they are often misinformed.  Information procured by one bureaucrat
      will be contradicted by another bureaucrat working out of the same
      office.  Handling investment transactions, moving money in-
      and-out of countries, complying with both the United States and
      Ecuadors’ financial information forms have become much more
      complicated than when I first arrived in Ecuador in 2011. The changes
      with financial and government procedures and the complications
      caused by them are always on-going and never-ending.  That, for me,
      is the most negative feature in living abroad, and an issue that many
      future expats give little consideration.

5)  Are you living alone, or with your family?

     I am divorced, and I live alone.  I have two adult sons.  One lives in the
     United States, and the other son soon will relocate to the Middle East.

6)  Was it easy making friends and meeting people?  Do you mainly
     socialize with other expats in Cuenca?  How did you manage to find a
     social circle in Cuenca?

     It was extremely easy to make new friends and meet people in
     Cuenca, especially when so many new people were arriving after
     “International Living” magazine identified Cuenca as the number one
     city for retirement.  There was such an excitement in the air among the
     new arrivals from 2010 through 2012.  At one point, there were three
     “Gringo Night” venues, which successfully competed for new gringo
     trade, as well as for the dollars of potential gringos who came to visit
     and check-out if Cuenca was the right move for them.  Expat nights at
     this point have run their course.   However, there are a number of
     restaurants, cafes, and bars that cater to expat crowds.  Expats are
     generally easy to meet on the streets and will normally be helpful.  It is
     almost impossible for me to walk the streets of Cuenca, and not meet
     someone I don’t know.

     I mostly associate with other expats, but I have Ecuadorian friends as
     well.  I don’t devote sufficient time to the study of Spanish.  All of my
     Ecuadorian friends speak English, and all but one of them lived in the
     United States for periods of time.  My Ecuadorian friends speak to me in
     English, because we can have a normal conversation in English since
     my Spanish is not at a competent conversational level.  It is more difficult
     for me to understand Spanish when it is spoken to me, than it is for me to
     speak Spanish or to read Spanish.

     Cuenca has a population of 325,000 in the city proper.  There are over
     600,000 people in the canton, which is equivalent to a county in the
     United States.  Cuenca is the big city with a small town atmosphere.
     There are about 4,000 expats, and almost all of them are from the
     United States and Canada.  The expat population has maintained itself
     at about the 4,000 number.  New people are continuously moving in,
     and others are equally moving out.  Some expats move to the nearby
     hinterlands outside Cuenca, or to other parts of Ecuador.  Some expats
     indulge their wanderlust, and after they have experienced Cuenca for a
     few years move to another country to experience their next adventure.
     Other expats return to their home countries, generally because of family
     considerations or homesickness.  We also have our share of expats who
     live in Cuenca just long enough to procure legal residency, and then
     return to the states.  These expats have no genuine intention of living in
     Ecuador, but like to have legal residency in case things continue to
     become increasingly politically dicey in the United States.  One change
     that I have noticed in the past year has been the increase in younger
     expats with children who are moving to Cuenca.  Until recently, the vast
     majority of expats have been in the post-fifty age group.

     One thing about the expats in Cuenca is that they are scattered in every
     area of the city and in most neighborhoods. Even in neighborhoods
     where there are higher concentrations of expats, in none of these
     neighborhoods do expats make up a majority of the population. 
     Geographically, there are no gringo ghettos in Cuenca.

7) What are the best things to do in the area?  Anything to recommend to
     future expats?

     Cuenca is the cultural capital of Ecuador.  Many of the cultural activities
     are financed by the national government.  The many festivals, the city’s
     very fine orchestra, concerts, art exhibits, and stage performances are
     usually free.  The city is resplendent with art galleries, and also has three
     major universities.  Recently, the expats have been organizing art as well
     as stage performances in English.  Many expats who may not act, are
     participating in painting backdrops, making costumes,  applying makeup,
     and doing stage work like sound and lights.  There is a cornucopia of
     dance classes, art classes, book-writing classes, sewing, knitting and
     weaving classes, Spanish-learning  classes, yoga classes, and cooking
     classes.  Some expats form their own bands that perform in local
     restaurants and bars.

     Many expats devote hours to charity or to missionary work.  Many social
     groups among the expats have been transplanted in Cuenca as well.  For
     example; fraternal organizations, English-speaking churches, new age
     groups, and military veteran organizations have all sprung up in Cuenca
     in recent years.  Any expats who are bored in Cuenca has no one to
     blame but themselves.

     There is a plethora of restaurants in all price ranges, and an increasing
     number of international restaurants have appeared in Cuenca.  We have
     an excellent Japanese restaurant, which includes some of the best
     sushi I have ever eaten.  Cuenca also has some very good Italian
     restaurants.  Tiesto’s has an excellent world class chef, Juan Carlos,
     and offers by far your best meal in Cuenca for Ecuadorian or Andean
     food.  If you visit Cuenca, Noe Japanese Restaurant and Tiesto’s are a
     must.  I would like to see some good quality Thai, Indian, Mexican, and
     Caribbean restaurants open in Cuenca.  We have some Caribbean and
     Mexican restaurants, and many Chinese restaurants, but none of them
     are very good. 

     Is there anyone out there in the world, who can bring some outstanding
     Chinese cuisine to Cuenca, particularly with high quality dishes of
     Schezuan and Hunan?  

     Because of all the Ecuadorian government import restrictions and custom
     taxes, it is difficult for some ethnic restaurants to keep a steady supply of
     the ingredients that are essential to the preparation of the authentic flavors 
     required for their dishes.

     Cuenca is very much a walking city, and is also great for jogging.  There
     also are a number of health clubs in the city.  Cuenca lies at the
     entrance of the awesome Cajas National Park, which is great for hiking,
     camping, and trout fishing.  There is literally something for everybody in
     Cuenca.

8) How does the cost of living in Ecuador compare to the United States?

    Generally, the cost of living is about 1/3 rd of what the cost-of-living is in
    the United States.  Cuenca has the largest middle-class of the large cities
    in Ecuador proportionately to its population, which may explain why it
    has the highest cost-of-living in Ecuador as well.  Rents and home
    purchases are a fraction of what they are in the United States.

    Utilities are very inexpensive.  My electric bill is about sixteen dollars a
    month, gas is about twenty-three dollars, and water about four dollars.
    These bills are for a 1,700 sq. ft. apartment.  Cuenca is said to be a city
    of eternal springtime.  This is true if one defines spring as it is
    experienced in the northern United States.  Southerners will generally
    find Cuenca, especially during it cool months as too cool.  Nonetheless,
    we have no central heat or air-conditioning in Cuenca, which saves a
    great deal of money in construction costs and utility fees.  Homes and
    apartments will usually have propane or electric heaters to take the cold
    out of the air especially when first arising in the morning during the cooler
    months of July through September.

    Public transportation is very inexpensive in Cuenca.  A three mile taxi
    ride is about $1.50. There are over 5,000 taxis serving the city, and the
    buses are more than plentiful and often packed during peak hours. The
    price of a bus ride is twenty-five cents and half price if you are a senior
    citizen.  The city is very easy for walking, and more expats get more
    exercise now than they ever did when they lived in the states.  Not to
    mention that walking also saves money.  Unless someone is
    incapacitated, there really is no need to own a car in Cuenca, which is a
    huge savings in itself. 

    Fresh fruits and vegetables are very inexpensive.  Meats are comparable
    or somewhat less in price in the supermarkets with the United States, but
    they also can be purchased for forty to sixty percent less in the
    mercados.  Processed foods and imported foods are expensive in
    Ecuador, primarily because of the high import taxes placed on most
    imports, that is to the degree that those products are allowed into the
    country at all.

    Ecuadorians enjoy amuerzo, which is a lunch-time break usually from
    1:00 p.m. until 3:00 p.m.  Amuerzos can be purchased in restaurants
    for about $2.50 to $5.00 dependent upon the quality of the amuerzo.  A
    meal will normally consist of a cup or bowl of soup, either chicken or
    pork, rice, beans, corn, and/or potatoes. The amuerzos are very high in
    carbs, and needless to say inexpensive and very filling.  Meals in middle
    and up-scale restaurants in Cuenca are about a quarter to half the price of
    dinners in comparable restaurants in the states.  Alcohol is very
    expensive in Ecuador due to the stiff tariffs, and the government taxes
    in the endeavor to raise revenue and to discourage people from drinking.
 
    The most costly products in Ecuador are appliances, electronics, and
    automobiles.  These products are much more expensive than in the
    United States.  Imported brands, for example, like Whirlpool, Sony, and
    Samsung can cost double what they charge in the United States. Brands
    made in Ecuador, Peru, or Columbia are of equally good quality, and are
    at a mid-range price between American and Asian brand products sold
    here, and  what is charged in the United States for those brand products.
    Finally, people who live abroad need to remember to factor into their
    budget whatever traveling they plan to do back-and-forth to their home
    country.


9) How do you find the local culture and people in Ecuador?

    Cuecanos are a very friendly people, and most will be quite helpful to
    expats.  Many changes are taking place in the culture like the changes
    that are taking place all over the world, but for the most part Cuecanos
    are still very family-oriented.  Ecuador is still a very Roman Catholic
    country.  The people of Cuenca take a great deal of pride in their city. 
    They love its tranquility and its very low crime rate, its natural beauty
    enhanced by the four rivers flowing from the Cajas through the city, and
    enshrined like the jewel that it is in a valley surrounded by the expanse 
    of the mighty Andes.  Cuencanos delightfully bask in the prestige of being a
    UNESCO-recognized heritage site devoted to the preservation of its
    sixteenth century Renaissance architecture and buildings which dot the
    the El Centro district of the city. 

10. Do you miss home and family sometimes?  How do you cope with
      homesickness?

      I’ve never had a problem with homesickness.  I truly am where I want to
      be.  I do travel back to the states once or twice a year.  I recently visited
      with my son who resides on the East coast.  My one brother and his wife
      and I are planning to meet in New Orleans in early December.  Emails
      and especially SKYPE make keeping in touch with family so easy today.
      I would think that women, especially with young grandchildren who live
      in close proximity and spend time with their grand kids, should especially
      consider whether or not it is wise for them to move away from family.
      These are some of the women who have the most difficult time adjusting
      to being away from home.

11. Do you have plans to move to a different country or back home in the
      future?

      I plan to remain here in Cuenca, but ultimately no one knows what the
      future holds.  One of the perks in living in Ecuador is that the country
      makes a great way-station to travel to other countries in the Caribbean
      and South America.  Earlier this year I spent five weeks in Brazil and
      Buenos Aries, and I also tipped-toed across the border to Mancura,
      Peru.

12. What tips can you give other expats living in Ecuador?

       I guess the one tip to expats who recently moved here or who are
       considering moving to this fabulous country would be to do your
       homework.  Read the blogs of people who live here, and read on-line
       periodicals dealing with expats living in Ecuador.  Don’t take any one
       site as an authority.  People have different needs, experiences, and
       perceptions so read and discern what may over time become a picture
       of what you may think is a fairly accurate composite of Ecuador and
       whether or not you think Ecuador would be the right move for you.  I
       would also recommend that you visit for at least once and for at least a
       month to decide if a move south of the Equator is the potentially right
       move for you.

       Most of all, don’t rush into buying property.  Renting is initially often the
       better choice.  Each expat needs to make that decision for themselves, but
       it takes time to know if you will remain here.  Also, you need time to know
       the market.  Otherwise, you will be taken advantage of by unscrupulous
       realtors.  A number of expats have paid a good deal more than their
       property was worth, because it seemed like such a bargain compared to
       prices charged for comparable property back in the states.
  
       Someone recently wrote an article in an expat on-line periodical that
       encouraged expats to buy a home for $70,000 and then as an
       investment rent it out for $1,000 per month. This is nonsense.  Any
       building in Cuenca that sells for $70,000 is most likely ten or more years
       old.  Construction codes were not what they are today.  Many of these
       homes have major plumbing, electrical, and/or roof and window leakage
       problems at that price.  I have been in older homes were the lights are
       frequently blinking on and off, and/or where the electrical wiring runs
       exposed along the interior walls and ceilings of the house.  Many homes
       that are decades old have never had their kitchens or bathrooms
       remodeled.  These homes usually rent to expats for $300 to $500. 
       (Notice, I said expats.  Cuecanos pay less.)  The amount to refurbish them
       would be very expensive.  Not to mention the very real pain, frustration,
       and major inconvenience of dealing with city codes and permits, the 
       quality and reliability of workers, and cultural and language differences,
       especially if you do not have a solid background in home construction.
       Even after the remodeling has been made, $1,000 per month is steep
       unless you have done very high quality renovations and you most likely
       would need to fully furnish the house as well.  Otherwise, paying $1,000
       per month means you’re a very naive expat.
 
       Get to know the market before you plunge in.  No matter how good the
       deal sounds compared to what you would pay back home, you still may
       be paying a good deal more than you need to.  This is also true of 
       apartment and home rentals.  Some expats are paying $1,000 for one
       and two and three bedroom unfurnished apartments, often in the same 
       building where other expats are paying $500 to $600 for comparable
       apartments.  Some expats enter the market unaware of the overcharges,
       and other expats have money to burn, paying the higher prices without a
       forethought or a care about how they may be contributing to the purchase
       and rental inflation in the city, which has nothing to do with current supply
       and demand.  
        
13)  Do you have favorite websites or blogs about Ecuador?

       Well, my favorite blog is my own blog, which is called “Cuenca
       Perspectives by Jim”, and begins with my first visit to Cuenca in
       2010, continues with my moving to Cuenca in early 2011, and covers to
       my current time period.  My link is:


       I would also encourage viewers to read:
     


       http://www.gringopost.com 




    
 
     
     

    

Tuesday, July 1, 2014

TWO CONDOS FOR SALE IN EL CENTRO

THESE CONDOS ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE


Two attractive, unfurnished, two-level, one bedroom, one bath condos are for sale in El Centro for living accommodations, or as apartment or office rental investments.

Both condos are completely refurbished from top to bottom.  They include a new roof, all new plumbing and electrical, new ceramic flooring and new cabinets throughout, with freshly plastered walls, gorgeous wood and beam ceilings, and two-pane windows for noise reduction and for warmer space during Cuenca's cooler months.  Both condos are bathed in light and have nice views of Turi and the New Cathedral.


 St. Agustin I Condo  73 Meters  $76,500


























St. Agustin Condo II  62 Meters  $69,500 










Thursday, March 13, 2014

DOING CRAZY IN ECUADOR

Well just another convoluted day in my life in Ecuador. I leave for Brazil in two weeks for a month and then on to Buenos Aries for one week before returning to Ecuador. I am in another one of those stages were little is going right, or filled with hurdles to get anything accomplished. I'll skip the myriad of small things that have occupied untold aimless hours, and just mention the two major things.

My insurance agent stood me up four times. She is notorious in the Gringo community for not keeping appointments.  I accessed Miami to deal with Bupa Health Insurance directly, and renew my policy. I followed the rep's instructions, and when I called later they claimed they never got my scan,  which provided them with my credit card number to pay my premium.  My policy expired, and they said I would have to deal with my local agent to renew the policy. Great, that response is called going into the deepest depths of hell, and replay karma one more time.  I hope the same won't also be true with the credit card number floating around out there somewhere.  I've just been through that scenario the last three months and all the fall-out that goes with it.

Then I was told through a Spanish-speaking interpreter who talked to the Brazilian embassy on the telephone, that I had to go to Quito to get my visa at the Brazilian Embassy. I then discovered a few days later that there were listed two consulates at totally different addresses on Google for a Brazilian consulate in Cuenca. The phone numbers did not work at either one of them. I assumed, therefore, that is why I was told I had to go to Quito, because they must have closed the consulate in Cuneca. After all, the economy in Brazil isn't exactly humming right now, and the closure may have been part of an economic austerity program.  I arrived in Quito yesterday. Thirty-five minutes to fly from Cuenca to Quito and then ninety minutes to take a bus from the new airport to downtown Quito.

Today I went to the embassy, had to run around to a bank a few blocks from the embassy to pay my fee for the visa. Sounded easy enough, but the bank consisted of two windows in a small enclosure stuck between two tiendas (stores).  After asking about six people and walking in circles, the last person I asked was able to point it out to me. I'm looking for a bank among all these skyscrapers--something large with its name emblazoned on it.  The check-loaning places back home were larger.   I returned to the embassy with my receipt, only to be told I would have to come back on Monday to pickup my visa for Brazil and have my passport returned to me. What!  I said I'm from Cuenca.  The Internet page says if I show up in person with all the documentation, I could receive my visa within three days. The two ladies exclaimed, "Cuenca"! Why didn't you get your visa at the consulate in Cuenca? Grrr... Of course, neither knew who told my translator that I would have to procure my visa in Quito.  Much discussion pursued among the three of us, attempting understanding between our mixed Spanish and English as to how my Passport would be sent to me. Finally, we determined that I would have to pickup the passport and my visa at the consulate in Cuenca on Monday or Tuesday of next week. My main concern was that my passport and visa was not going through the Ecuadorian mail delivery system, or I would never see my passport again. I would be stranded in Ecuador for the rest of my life, which wouldn't be a bad thing, but I do want to do some traveling. Yea, I'm also concerned when I go to the address for the consulate that the ladies gave me, that the consulate will in fact be there.

So I am actually in a very good mood, even after getting up yesterday at 6:00 a.m. to get my yellow fever shot before traveling to Quito, and 7:30 a.m. today to arrive at the Brazilian embassy by 9:00 a.m. I've had only ten hours of sleep over the last two nights.  My blood, however, has been replaced with gallons of coffee. Of course, the Internet address for the embassy was wrong, and I was going in the opposite direction. The security guard at the building gave me the new address. I could ask some stupid question like why don't embassy officials update their Google web sites, and remove the old ones that no longer apply? In Ecuador, I'm just suppose to know those things by osmosis. It was a long ride to the other end of Avenida Amazonas, but the cab fare was half of what the first cabbie charged me and three times further.  Taxis in Quito are suppose to have meters, but half of the taxis I rode did not have meters.  The cabbies without meters were very fair except for this one and before I had an idea of what was a reasonable rate in Quito.

So here I am at the airport waiting for five hours--three more to go--to catch my flight back to Cuenca. What lesson was I suppose to learn from the last two days experience? Is there any lesson involved? Is it just one of those things that happens? Whatever, I am sitting here with only nine minutes left before my battery runs out, and there are no plug-ins for my laptop. Lots of money spent needlessly that could have gone toward my trip to Brazil, but at least the Ecuadorian economy prospers. I'm in good humor, actually kind of enjoying it all. Can't say once my computer shuts down, and I have nothing to do but study Spanish, if I'll feel the same way. Needless to say, the plane will be at least an half an hour late from take off. They always are. Just though they don't cancel the flight, which can easily happen. I managed to bounce emails back-and-forth with my daughter-in-law, Maria, and razz her a little about the weather and more snow back in South Bend. Now let me sign off and send this before the computer power shuts down. Come to think of it, some of you just got a preview to my next blog post. Chao for now.

Postscript

The new Quito Airport is nice.  I was not in the International wing.  The food court is very nice.  However, the prices are outrageous like all airports.  The waiting areas to catch intra-country flights could have been made larger.  When my power dissipated, I thought I found Nirvana on a sweeping terrace aligning the food court where one could sit and eat and enjoy the mountains lying pass the parking areas.  There were plug-ins!  The problem was none of them were connected.  No juice, if you know what I mean. 

The most surreal part of the day was ahead of me--exquisitely Ecuatoriano.  The departure flight, of course, was fifty minutes late.  One does not go down an enclosed flank that leads into the air plane.  Instead we walk out to a bus shuttle, which then takes us to where the airplane is located.   It was packed for the short ride.  As we escaped from the packed shuttle, made our way up the stairs, and boarded the plane; suddenly one of the first passengers to board shouted, "No Cuenca--Guayaquil".  We were boarding the wrong plane.  We had to turn around and inform everyone down the line to reverse themselves and get back on the shuttle-bus.

Once aboard the bus again, I didn't know if the driver was going to take us to another plane, or return us to the departure concourse.  Surprisingly, and this is one of the many things I genuinely love about the Ecuatoriano people.  No one got upset, no one shouted, no one appeared angry, no one immediately got on their cell phones to contact their attorney to see how they could sue the airlines.  Instead the passengers were in a humorous mood.  People were laughing at various comments and jokes passengers were making in Spanish.  I only understood two of the comments.  One fellow said, "Do they know were our plane is?"  Another said, "I hope they take us to Miami instead of Guayaquil", which got a big laugh.  Ecuadorians love shopping in Miami.  Finally, the bus driver located the correct plane.  We boarded, were all seated, and sat on the tarmac for fifteen minutes more before clearance and eventual take-off.

From the point of departure, nothing out of the ordinary happened.  I arrived home at 8:30 p.m.  Unpacked.  Read my Facebook site and discovered to my horror that I had written and posted the above before the postscript on a friend's site I happened to be reading at the time I was in the airport instead of on my site.  When I saw what I had done, I posted the following comment:

"Good God, Lori, I've been home an hour, unpacked, and then looked for my post, and couldn't find it anywhere until I saw your comment.  I had no idea I posted it while I was on your Facebook site.  Is there any hope for me?!?  Don't answer that, PLEASE!"

Tomorrow, Bupa with which to deal.  I have no idea of an alternative health insurance that offers me what this policy does.  I also need to find someone that can fix my Canon printer, which conveniently broke down two days before I left for Quito.  Whatever the problem; it requires, according to the manual, due to the alternating green and orange lights flashing, outside intervention.  There is no way the printer will get shipped back to the manufacturer.  I may be doing crazy, but I'm not completely over the edge yet.

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

MANCORA BOUND

I returned Monday evening from Mancora, Peru. a seven hour trip from Cuenca, and about two of those hours are travel time in Peru.  This was my first foray into Peru.  Over forty of us left from Cuenca riding a tourist bus on Thursday and returned early Monday evening.  Mancora, on the Pacific Ocean, is a beach town.  There was much sun and humidity, but in one respect, Mancora reminded me more of Hawaii with breezes off the ocean, and the humidity was not stifling like in Miami.   

The terrain was steep, green, lush and astoundingly beautiful on the way down as we made our way pass the outskirts of Cuenca to open spaces where the valleys and hill sides were no longer  covered in homes.  It was a very clear day that offered the sight of magnificent views, which I soaked in with my eyes wide open.  After a point the mountains became more rounded, some surfaces looked like honeycombs, then the vegetation became dry, and the mountains rugged and cliff-like, reminiscent of parts of the western United States.  As we descended from the higher elevations (Cuenca is 8,500 feet above sea level), the land became flatter and various fruit plantations were observed.  I was quite impressed with the size of the mango trees.  I learned as we rode pass banana plantations, that as the trees bear fruit, the bananas at the two month start of their appearance are wrapped in blue plastic bags to protect them from insects, squirrels, and birds, and to speed up the ripening process due to the ethylene oxide emitted by the plastic bags.  The bags in effect serve as miniature green houses.

On the other hand, what little we saw of Peru, it sure did look   poorer than the worse I've seen thus far in Ecuador.  We saw many simple homes on both sides of the border made out of bamboo in the drier areas, which looked a lot nicer than homes constructed from cement.  We also saw more goat herds along the countryside than I've seen anywhere I've traveled in Ecuador before.

The Peruvians, at least in this part of the country, in general, have a different appearance from Ecuatorianos.  Peru along with Bolivia are heavily populated by indigenous people, while the majority of Ecuatorianos are mestizos of mixed indigenous and Spaniard blood.
I found generally the Peuvians to be more round faced, darker, and somewhat heavier than their neighbors to the north.  The people in Mancora were just as open, friendly, and helpful, as we find among the Ecuatorianos.

It was fascinating to ride through the various towns in Peru including Mancora, where there were no taxis whatsoever.  The chutneys, or motorized bikes with the driver up front, and room for two or three people in the back of the buggy that was wrapped in colored plastic scampered all over the towns.  I had, to date, only experienced these vehicles in Ecuador when I was in Puerto Lopez in 2012, a beach front coastal town in Ecuador.

The resort was beautifully landscaped and enclosed.  The owner obviously knew a great deal about India or about Eastern religions, as there were Buddhas and statues of Ganesh (the Hindu god of good fortune) throughout the garden areas.  The rooms were spread out in huts of bamboo, with nothing fancy on the inside.  The bathrooms very interestingly opened up to the outside with no ceilings on them, and had live gardens in them due to the fact that it rarely ever rains in this desert-like area.  The pool was nice and  a dip into it was refreshing in the summer heat, although I would have preferred a larger pool.  Actually, the resort would make a perfect ashram for Eastern meditation, which was not about to happen with our group by any stretch of the imagination.  

We enjoyed the Pisco Sour, the Peruvian national drink.  There are many ways to make the famous Pisco Sour, so it's best to know the fundamentals. The basic formula is 3 parts pisco to 1 part simple syrup and 1 part lime juice. With that goes egg white, and a sprinkle of Angostura bitters.  Needless to say, the drink is going to be served over ice in a drink that is shaken before poured.  A white foam of about an inch forms at the top of the glass. What is Pisco you ask?  Pisco is a colorless or yellowish-to-amber colored grape brandy which is produced in the winemaking regions of Peru and Chile. My first Pisco was the best, as it was more on the sweet side.  It complemented beautifully the ceviche some of us had for lunch.  Ecuadorian ceviche is served more like a cold soup, while Peruvian ceviche is served without anything appearing to be a broth.  Personally, I enjoy both methods of ceviche preparation.  I found the Piscos served to me in other establishments to be more tart, which reminded me more of a whiskey sour, and I did not like them as well.

Many of us dined one evening on some absolutely excellent tuna that was cooked to perfection, and some great lomo fino.  I had the almond encrusted tuna, which was served medium rare.  The experience was like eating some of the best sushi imaginable.  Peru imports its beef from Argentina.  Unlike Ecuador, which butchers milk cows when they stop producing.  At least that's what I've been told.  Others propose also that cows in Ecuador are more likely to pasture on the sides of hills, and therefore, build up more sinew. Ecuadorian beef even in most of the best restaurants has a tendency toward toughness.  Peruvians also know how to cook for natural flavor, and do not as in Ecuador cook meat until all natural juices are dissipated.  I plan with friends to make a trip to Lima later in the year to experience the utterly famous gourmet delights of some of the world's best chefs.  Mancora proved to be an enticement. 

Our last evening, a group of us rode a lengthy patch of unpaved road in the chutneys to a shake, rattle, and row ride that jarred my kidneys as they have not been jarred since I rode buses with no shock-absorbers in the 70's on similar roads in India. 

The ride was well worth it.  We arrived at a hotel on the Pacific with a beautifully, luxuriously, contemporary designed restaurant, bar, and open space of leisurely seating as we watched the sun set over the Pacific.  Some in our group thought the bar and restaurant design was something one would expect to find in Malibu, California.  It very much reminded me of the many times I would sit on the beaches of Warren Dunes in Michigan and watch the sunset as well.  For dinner I had lomo fino over a type of cake mixture of ingredients of which I no longer recall.  I found both the medallions of steak to be very tender and succulent and the cake-type mound to be delicious. The evening was a perfect complement to an overall enjoyable five days. 

As I think back.  I remember the very pretty, sweet young lady who waited on our table at the Tex-Mex restaurant and always gave me a smile. I remember the young man from Columbia who served my friend and me at "Green Eggs and Ham" as we wiled away the afternoon overlooking the beach, the people, and all the activities.  Our waiter spoke very good English and would intersperse between customers opportunities to speak with us, and ultimately took his break time to sit with us and tell us all about his home town of Medellin, Columbia.  A city that not all that long ago was a hotspot of Cocaine trafficking and violence, and now is being championed as a place for retirement--a city that is looking to the future rather than attempting to preserve its past.  The young waiter who was so eager about life and had such a wanderlust to travel certainly convinced me to move a visit to Medellin up on my list of priorities for travel in South America.  Then there was the young man at the restaurant where we had such wonderful tuna or in some cases osso buco, and the young man at the hotel restaurant on our last evening; both of whom were so efficient, knew how to handle gringos with finesse and charm, and were a pleasure to have them provide us with such personal service.

We were not given a great deal of detail about the full itinerary of the trip.  Therefore, I decided not to bring my camera or my laptop with me.  I did not know what the security factors would be like.  I also transferred telephone companies the day before we traveled, and my phone would not be working until tomorrow again (Manana, we shall see.). I have no photos to share.  Neither do I recall, nor did I make an effort to write down the name of the hotel or the restaurants, or the resort.  It was just nice to enjoy old and new friends and acquaintances.  Due to circumstances beyond my control, I could not get Internet access as well at the public Internet tiendas, which proved to be another luxury.  For a few days life was somewhat slower-paced, leisurely, and more simple.  This once again is one of the reasons why living in Cuenca is so nice.  It makes a strategic way station in the visit to other parts of South America and the Caribbeans.

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

MAJOR NATIONAL EMBARRASSMENT: ECUADORIAN POSTAL SERVICE

There is so much to be positive where Ecuador and especially Cuenca are concerned.  However, quite frankly, I find the Ecuadorian Postal Service to increasingly becoming egregiously inefficient and incompetent.  Some would argue it always has been.

I have frequently heard complaints from various expats as well as Ecuadorians about the service.  Nevertheless, in my case, I found the postal service to be quite good my first two years in Cuenca in 2011 and 2012.  I had the advantage of living in the Palermo, which is a prominent address any postal worker would know without a full address, and mail was always delivered right to the building.  When I first moved into the Palermo, I was told by some residents that I would need to pickup my mail at the El Centro post office, which I believe is the only post office in the city.  Other residents suggested I rent a post office box at the post office.  However, I quickly discovered that I always received any package or letter directly at the Palermo, and within two weeks.  In turn, anything I mailed to the U.S. would arrive there in two weeks.  Only once in 2011 was there a problem when my aunt sent a Christmas card in early December of 2010 and I did not receive it until mid-February of 2011.  Otherwise, I was very pleased with the service.

In 2013 the mail delivery began to deteriorate, especially toward the end of the year.  Letters and small bubble-wrapped packages began to take longer to arrive, and for the current year of 2014, delivery has become abhorrent.  Not only has delivery become abhorrent, but also has service.  There use to be two people working the windows at the Cuenca Post Office where letters and packages are to be mailed.  Now, there is only one person, and when busy, it is not uncommon to have fifteen to twenty-five people in line, and no one stepping forth to help until the lines dwindle.  In fact, if a second person is there, they just sit there staring at the computer doing God knows what.

Last June, I sent a letter to U.S. Social Security as requested by them.  I traveled to the states in September and returned to Cuenca in the middle of October.  I had a follow-up letter from the Social Security office as a second notice which requested the same information.  This time I made a copy of the June form, and updated the October form, and sent it registered mail with tracking.  Four dollars for postage, because the envelope size was larger than the normal envelope and the weight was more, and the cost was eleven dollars for the tracking.  

Lo and behold, in the modern world of Ecuadorian computers, I would type in my code on my receipt to check the tracking status.  The system could not come up with my item.  I finally after two weeks went into the post office, and spent half an hour waiting while the postal workers attempted to locate my tracking item.  Finally, I was called back upstairs, and fortunately an articulate young man who spoke very good English and was waiting for service was able to translate for me, since no one in the office spoke English, and we were at the point of explanation that exceeded my understanding of Spanish.  I was given a form to fill out.  I was told because of the holidays, I might as well not bring the form in until next week, since many postal workers would not be working.  Once the lady received my form, I would need to wait seventy-two hours, while it was determined whether or not they could locate my tracking form.  I asked the young man to ask the employee, if they could not locate my tracking code would I receive a refund.  After he asked the lady, he sort of shook his head toward me, shrugged his shoulders, and said maybe.  (Which in Ecuadorian means "probably not"; or if you wish to pursue it, we will have an entirely new slew of forms for you to fill out requesting a refund.)

I took the postal form home, and when I finally began to fill it out, I discovered I had to give a destination address.  Since the form sent to the U.S. Social Security office was in a printed envelope provided by them, I didn't pay close attention as to which office it was sent.  I discovered in my personal Social Security file envelope addresses to Pennsylvania, Baltimore, Kansas.  None of them had a post mark date on them.  I had no idea what the destination was, so I didn't bother to submit the form to the Ecuadorian postal authorities, and just ate the fourteen dollar loss.

I made copies of both my June and October forms.  Picked the two most likely addresses that may have sent me the Social Security forms, and my friends agreed to mail both letters in Houston as they arrived there.  Oftentimes on Gringo Post and Gringo Tree there will be expats asking for or offering to take mail from Cuenca and mail it in the United States, which is just further examples of how untrustworthy the Ecuadorian Postal Service functions.  

I ordered a product in late November of 2013, which when ordered in the past arrived in two weeks in one of those bubble envelopes, and required no tax.  This time it took two months to arrive.  I ordered another package which was shipped out of the U.S. on December 11th, and has yet to arrive.  The same package ordered the same time of the year in 2011 and 2012 arrived within two weeks, and yes, delivered directly to the Palermo.  

My youngest brother sent me some important documentation, which I received today.  It took five weeks to arrive.  My other brother sent me a Christmas card which arrived two weeks ago toward the end of January.  He also sent me a birthday card, the week before he sent the Christmas card.  It still has not arrived.
Yes, I know my brother needs to learn how to use electronic ecards, which can even be sent free, and that will take care of that problem.  It's sad when I hear expats say, "While just don't use the mail system.  We don't."  

Today, I finally trekked down to the post office to see if from the manifest I spent last night creating for them, if they could locate any of my mail listed which I had not received.  I never even received local monthly statements of my telephone bills in November and December, although I did receive a statement for January just this week. The problem, therefore, is not just with International mail, but with local mail in Cuenca not being delivered as well.  People suggested to me to go directly to the post office and check, because sometimes mail just sits in the mail room and doesn't get delivered, which is how some friends of mine procured their undelivered mail.  No mail found, and nothing in the computer of mail-on-hand with my name and address on it.

Anybody considering a move to Ecuador, and has followed the blogs are well aware of the slowness and over-bureaucratization of both Ecuadorian governmental services and private services.  I know in previous posts, I have warned that you must develop the patience beyond sainthood to deal with the endless red-tape that makes up Ecuadorian government and business practices.  I am absolutely convinced that the word "paper" and the words "multiple copies", and the word, "manana" have their origin deeply embedded somewhere in the Canari/Spanish socio-linquistic, and psychological make up of the Ecuadorian culture

I am well aware of cultural differences, and I certainly do not expect Ecuador to become a mini-United States.  I also literally am awe-strucked at the incredible patience and politeness that Ecuadorians exhibit as they wait in these endless lines.  I'm retired.  I am also fortunate that a number of my bills can be paid electronically.  Most Ecuadorians don't have that opportunity.  I don't know how these people manage it all, and work as well.  I have nothing but the greatest admiration for them.

I have chosen to make the Postal Service the focus of my attention for the following reason.  Thirty-eight years ago, I traveled throughout India for nine weeks.  In those days, the postal systems had these little, flimsy blue envelopes whereby you would write a message on one side and then fold the paper into four, lick the adhesive, and address the outside of the little blue envelope.  I thought how on earth is this letter ever going to find its way back to the United States or vice-versa?  

I could also write long letters, and mail them home in regular type envelopes, at obviously a more expensive price.  I wrote the letters of my magnificent experiences in India almost on a nightly basis;  one night to my mother, who could share my correspondence with the family, and on the other night to my mentor.  Everyone of those letters, including the little blue ones arrived in the U.S.A. within two weeks.  Years later both my mother and my mentor unbeknown to me had saved all my  correspondence and returned the letters to me, which I still have to this day.  I can tell you that the India of 1976 was extremely primitive compared to most of Ecuador today, particularly where the populations are concentrated.  Now I ask you, why was India able to operate a more efficient postal service in the 1970's than Ecuador can operate today?  

President Correa has pledged that his administration this year would focus on stream-lining the bureaucracy, and cutting through the red tape.  May I suggest to the President, that he has his administration concentrate on a complete overhaul of the Postal System.  Define what the problems are, and what it will take to resolve them, so that Ecuador has a postal system that begins to move into a first world status.  I genuinely wish you luck, Mr. President.  Bureaucracies certainly do not change simply by Presidential decrees and acts of Congress.  Bureaucracies ignore laws and policies until outside forces will no longer let them play that game, and force them to change.






















Monday, December 23, 2013

MERRY CHRISTMAS FROM CUENCA, ECUADOR: THE SPECTACLE OF LIGHTS




MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL
            AND THE HOPE FOR A                                        PROSPEROUS, HEALTHY, AND                          JOYOUS NEW YEAR
                                BLESSED WITH PEACE
                                    AND CONTENTMENT.


                                WITH LOVE AND SEASON'S GREETINGS,

                                           JIM MOLA


ENJOY THE LINK BELOW OF THE SPECTACLE OF CHRISTMAS LIGHTS IN CUENCA, ECUADOR.  CLICK ON THE FIRST PHOTO TO SEE AN ENLARGE IMAGE AND TO BE ABLE TO READ THE COMMENTARY UNDER EACH PHOTO.

https://plus.google.com/photos/111741036841400152108/albums/5960786075336859233